Elastic and non-elastic narrow fabrics : $b and a chapter on narrow fabrics made on knitting machinesBrown, Samuel
History
Elastic and non-elastic narrow fabrics : $b and a chapter on narrow fabrics made on knitting machines
Brown, Samuel
Elastic fabrics; Looms; Rubber industry and trade; Textile fabrics; Weaving
Like the loom webs, prominence of the rib over the rubber thread is the
main feature aimed at in the general appearance of the fabrics, and
therefore everything possible should be done which will emphasize this.
The binder warp must be of fine yarns, and the warp must be weighted so
as to cut the warp line down sharp and clear up to a point of safety,
being careful at the same time not to go to excess so as to narrow
in the goods or cause undue chafing of the rubber warp. The yarn most
generally used for filling is 26-2 comber and gassed high grade stock,
of about 15 turns per inch. It should be a well-rounded lofty yarn so
as to obtain all the covering property possible. It should be spun with
the utmost uniformity, as the slightest irregularity in the yarn will be
noticeable in the goods.
The dyeing and bleaching of the yarn used for filling is also of the
greatest importance. It is not an unusual occurrence to find otherwise
perfect goods made unmarketable as first class by the use of a filling
yarn which has not been properly processed. This faulty condition of
the yarn may be caused in a variety of ways; such as an irregular boil,
poor circulation of liquor in the kier, irregular drying, etc. Even when
the color appears to be perfect, poor processing will often prevent the
smooth running of the yarn from the shuttle, causing it to drag and
thus create irregular and crooked selvages which result in the repeated
breaking of the selvage rubber threads and ruin the goods.
The many difficulties of this character which were encountered when skein
yarn was more generally used for filling led to the introduction and
almost general use of warp yarns for filling purposes, inasmuch as the
method of processing the warp yarns gives results which are not nearly
so variable. Furthermore the long unbroken runs of thread obtainable by
quilling avoid the many knots which are present when using skein yarn.
Knots are unsightly and objectionable when appearing on the face of the
goods.
Chafed and broken edge rubber threads, however, are not always the result
of the conditions named, by any means, but may be caused by a variety of
other things. Not infrequently the edge wire may be weaving too long in
the web so as not to draw out freely. Sometimes it may be a bent wire
that causes the trouble, or it may be the rubber rolling around the wire.
Many times defects are caused by the edge wire having cut into the dent,
so that it has a file-like effect as the rubber thread passes by in
weaving. All these things require looking into, and when trouble comes
the cause should be found and not guessed at.
FRENCH WEB OR RAILROAD WEAVE
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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