Elastic and non-elastic narrow fabrics : $b and a chapter on narrow fabrics made on knitting machines — John Shaqi
Elastic and non-elastic narrow fabrics : $b and a chapter on narrow fabrics made on knitting machinesBrown, Samuel
History
Elastic and non-elastic narrow fabrics : $b and a chapter on narrow fabrics made on knitting machines
Brown, Samuel
Elastic fabrics; Looms; Rubber industry and trade; Textile fabrics; Weaving
Another plain web which has attained considerable popularity, and which
is a kind of intermediate grade between the loom web and the lisle, is
what is known as the French web or railroad weave, shown at Fig. 8. In
almost all respects the general treatment of this web is the same as
already described, and it differs only in the draft, which is shown at
Fig. 8A. It allows for the use of a somewhat finer yarn than is generally
employed in the loom web, and the draft changes at every two cords, which
gives it a peculiar “rowey” appearance from which it derives the name of
railroad weave.
There is one feature associated with all these plain webs which it might
be well to speak of. The high tension at which it is necessary to work
the rubber warp, together with the light weight required on the cotton
warp and the crowding together of the picking, creates a tendency for
the goods to rebound at the front reed, accompanied by a backward and
forward sliding movement when passing over the rod at the breast beam.
This movement is liable to polish the goods, which is an objectionable
feature. To counteract this it is advisable to let the web pass over
a small, felt-covered wood tube, which revolves and responds to the
movement of the bounding web. In this way there is no friction to glaze
or polish the web and interfere with the bloom of the yarn. The same
polish will occur as the goods pass through the press rolls, unless they
are felt covered.
CABLE WEB
The most popular web now made up into men’s garters is what is known
as the cable web, shown at Fig. 9. With the pronounced prominence of
the two-dent rib, which gives it a character peculiarly different
from the plain web, it is well adapted to this class of goods. Simple
in appearance, it nevertheless requires special care to manufacture,
particularly when we remember that it is not unusual to be required to
make a finished stretch of not less than 100 per cent. The harness draft
and weave are shown at Fig. 9A. The construction is as follows: Binder,
34 ends 80/2; Gut, 24 ends 20/2; Rubber, 18 ends 28s; Reed, 20 dent;
Picks, 80 per inch; Stretch, 100 per cent.
The filling, floating across the wide spaces under which lie the rubber
threads in pairs, is very easily thrown out of place, the result of which
may be an unsightly seersucker appearance, as shown in Fig. 10, which the
process of finishing aggravates rather than corrects.
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