Elastic and non-elastic narrow fabrics : $b and a chapter on narrow fabrics made on knitting machinesBrown, Samuel
History
Elastic and non-elastic narrow fabrics : $b and a chapter on narrow fabrics made on knitting machines
Brown, Samuel
Elastic fabrics; Looms; Rubber industry and trade; Textile fabrics; Weaving
Where the figure is made from the ground shuttle it is produced as
a sunken effect. It is made by burying sections of the face warp at
intervals so that in place of the face warp the filling is seen at these
points. No additional figure warps are required for this class of goods,
and elaborate designs are obtainable, although there is not the scope for
cross coloring that there is in the warp figure method.
STITCH FANCY PATTERNS
When the design is made from the warp, the figure threads are made to
float on the face of the goods so that upon contraction of the web after
weaving, these floats pearl up in prominence above the level of the face,
and make what is termed a stitch figure.
[Illustration: Fig. 4.—Point Draw Stitch Figure]
[Illustration: Fig. 4A.—Harness and Chain Draft for Fig. 4]
It is not our purpose here to particularize in design, which is
practically unlimited, but only to refer to those features which govern
the construction and illustrate as necessary. In order to maintain a
proper balance where figures are introduced on single cloth weaves, it is
necessary to distribute the figure warp uniformly over both the face and
back of the goods so as to maintain a proper balance between the two. In
the double cloth webs the figure warp, when not appearing on the face of
the goods, is allowed to run straight between the upper and lower cloths,
going in the same cavity or pocket as the rubber threads, and it works at
these times as a gut. This, of course, in a measure interferes with the
contraction of the goods and has to be taken into consideration in the
construction. Here again we must note the effect of the contraction in
piling up the floating-figure threads, and the necessity of limiting the
floats in making the design so as to avoid any ragged appearance.
[Illustration: Fig. 5.—Interchanging Figure and Face]
[Illustration: Fig. 5A.—Harness and Chain Draft for Fig. 5]
Fig. 4 shows a design of this character, with the harness and chain draft
at Fig. 4A. In this particular web there are six harnesses used for the
main body and ten for the figure, which is a point draw. While the figure
is evenly distributed on the web, wherever it is not seen it is running
between the upper and lower cloths, as already described, and acting as a
gut.
In order to get a proper balance of the web it is necessary to put gut
threads into the two outer cords where no figure appears, which must
be equivalent in size to the figure threads employed in each of the 21
center cords. If this is not done the web will contract unduly at the
edges and make it “belly.” The method here used of burying the figure
between the upper and lower cloths when not needed in carrying out the
design, affords opportunity for introducing additional warp threads
of different colors, so as to be able to bring up either one color or
another as desired in a design.
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