Close beside the Incomparable Pagoda are to be seen the Ku-tho-daw or
Royal Merit pagodas, forming a unique and truly wonderful piece of work.
They consist of a triple square of sets of little white pagodas, each
of which is amply large enough to form a shrine for one large slab of
Burmese marble, which stands up in the middle, like a cemetery headstone,
enshrined each in its own neat, bell-shaped pagoda building. Each slab of
marble is covered completely with a most accurately executed inscription
in the Pali language, in letters about three-eighths of an inch in
length. I have never counted these pagodas, but I am told by those who
have that there are 730 of them in all. They are arranged in perfect
symmetry, forming three squares one within another, each square being
surrounded by a wall with handsomely carved gates. In the centre of the
innermost square is a large pagoda, and ascending the steps of that the
spectator can obtain a good view of the whole, extending over many acres
of ground. The whole space between the rows of pagodas is carefully paved
with bricks. Every part of the work has been most thoroughly carried
out, utterly regardless of expense, and everything is of the best. There
is no crowding, but ample space is given everywhere. Is there to be
found anywhere or in any religion a more striking, impressive and unique
example of thoughtful devotion and loving care of those writings supposed
to contain the sacred truth? These 730 pagodas contain 730 tables of
stone covered with inscriptions, and it is considered to be the best
edition extant of the text of the three Pitakahs, and the three Pitakahs
are the scriptures of Buddhism, acknowledged as authoritative wherever
Buddhism is the people’s faith.
Close by the Ku-tho-daw we found another marvel. In a tall brick building
is an immense marble sitting figure of Buddha, 25 feet high, scores of
tons in weight, and thought to be perhaps the largest monolith in the
world.
But it is time we returned to the three men who, after a long, hot and
tiring day in the dusty streets of Mandalay, had taken refuge in the
little monastery, and were preparing to pass the night. Though little was
said about it, we were well aware that we ran some risks in being there
at that time. Upper Burma was still in the throes of the revolution which
had taken place, and life and property were unsafe. Any day a rising
might take place. We were practically in an enemy’s country. The military
were then, and for more than a year after, on the footing of a Field
Force, and had constantly to patrol the country in small columns, and to
go in all directions in pursuit of dacoits. Conflicts with dacoits were
of daily occurrence, and bulletins were published daily by the military
authorities describing what took place.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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