Highways and Byways in LondonCook, Emily Constance Baird
History
Highways and Byways in London
Cook, Emily Constance Baird
London (England) -- Description and travel
In the Lollards' Tower are some curious relics of the barbarous
tortures of the Middle Ages; and in the guard-room, or dining hall of
the Palace, is a series of portraits of all the Archbishops from
Cranmer to Benson. The modern and residential portion of the Palace,
in the Tudor style, is contained in the inner court; it was rebuilt by
Archbishop Howley in 1820. Howley was the last Archbishop who lived
here in state and kept open house; "the grand hospitalities of Lambeth
have perished," as Douglas Jerrold said, "but its charities live." The
ancient portions of the palace have known many vicissitudes of
fortune; Cranmer adorned his house, and loved to beautify his garden;
Wat Tyler and his rebels plundered the palace and beheaded Sudbury,
its then archbishop: and Laud, who had a hobby for stained glass,
filled the chapel windows with beautiful specimens, which were all
subsequently smashed by the Puritans. The palace, after having been
used successively as a prison, a place of revel, and a garrison
stronghold, now enjoys all the serenity of old age and quiet fortunes;
its solid red brick, which time darkens so prettily, looking ever
across the waters in calm dignity towards the taller stones of
Westminster,--the spiritual contrasted with the temporal.
The tower of the ancient church of St. Mary, Lambeth, close by the
Palace, is memorable as the shelter of Queen Mary of Modena, James
II.'s unfortunate wife, on the dramatic occasion of her flight from
Whitehall with her infant son (the "Old" Pretender), on a wild
December night of 1688:
"The party stole down the back stairs (of Whitehall), and
embarked in an open skiff. It was a miserable voyage. The
night was bleak; the rain fell; the wind roared; the water
was rough; at length the boat reached Lambeth; and the
fugitives landed near an inn, where a coach and horses were
in waiting. Some time elapsed before the horses could be
harnessed. Mary, afraid that her face might be known, would
not enter the house. She remained with her child, cowering
for shelter from the storm under the tower of Lambeth
Church, and distracted by terror whenever the ostler
approached her with his lantern. Two of her women attended
her, one who gave suck to the Prince, and one whose office
was to rock the cradle; but they could be of little use to
their mistress; for both were foreigners who could hardly
speak the English language, and who shuddered at the rigour
of the English climate. The only consolatory circumstance
was that the little boy was well, and uttered not a single
cry. At length the coach was ready. The fugitives reached
Gravesend safely, and embarked in the yacht which waited for
them."--_Macaulay._
St. Mary's is the mother church of the manor and parish, and its tower
dates from 1377:
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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