Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornmentOstier, Marianne
History
Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornment
Ostier, Marianne
Jewelry
Since the question of origins is buried in surmise, it seems fair to
follow that eminent advocate of the middle way, Sir Roger de Coverley,
and allow that there is something to be said for all three theories. Each
impulse, to hold up clothing, to ward off evil, to enjoy beauty—power,
protection, pleasure—may have had a share in the birth of adornment. It
is true that there are paintings and statues, in the early tombs, of
women clad only in their jewels. But while queens, and the concubines of
kings might be thus untrammeled in their quest of beauty, humbler folk at
work needed workaday attire. And always the magicians, the medicine men,
then the priests, wove their holy spells, with mitre and chalice and ring
inscribed with the secret words of power. A monarch of early times was an
impressive sight, as not only his rings, his armlets and neckpiece, but
his breastplate, the buckle of his belt, and the hilt of his sword were
carved with sacred symbols and crusted with precious stones. Here were
protection, power, and grandeur intertwined.
Perhaps the earliest jewelry to which we can attach an owner’s name was
in the find unearthed in 1901 by Flinders Petrie in the royal tombs at
Abydos. It is a bracelet of golden hawks, rising from alternate blocks
of turquoise and gold, and it belonged to the Egyptian Queen of Zer
back in 5400 B.C. Somewhat later lived the Princess Knumit, whose mummy
was adorned with all manner of jewels, anklets, bracelets, armlets,
headbands, including a serpent necklace of beads of gold, silver,
carnelian, lapis lazuli, and emerald, and hieroglyphics wrought in gold
with inlaid gems. From Chaldea, as early as 3000 B.C., we have beads, and
jewelry of lapis lazuli, and headdresses of finely beaten gold.
_Egypt and the Near East_
A panel in one of the pyramids gives us a realistic picture of the
interior of a jeweler’s shop of long ago. The master craftsman, his
bookkeeper, his workers and his apprentices are all busy at their tasks.
We see them selecting, cutting, grinding, firing, shaping, setting,
polishing, with tools that have changed little in 3000 years. The jewels
we know today are all present there: diadems, earrings, brooches,
bracelets, rings, girdles, anklets. The necklace seems to have been, in
most cases, a wide tight band, almost a collar; on many a mummy such a
“choker” has been preserved, studded with jewels, the gold between often
in the shape of a falcon, or a lotus, or a sphinx. Favorite among the
designs, of course, was the scarab; in the mummy itself, a scarab was
inserted to take the place of the heart.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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