Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornment — John Shaqi
Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornmentOstier, Marianne
History
Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornment
Ostier, Marianne
Jewelry
The telling of rosary beads, widespread today in Moslem as in Catholic
lands, is a milder modern aid to prayer; in primitive times the need for
protection was no less frequent and more desperate. Those of us who carry
a rabbit’s foot or other charm, who put an amulet in our automobile to
help us drive safely, who still “knock wood” to keep away mischance, need
not smile at our far-off ancestors who engraved their beads with potent
symbols or wore a scarab, preferably carved of precious stone, to keep
all ills away. Charms and amulets were on every neck and arm. The devils
were all about; they whirled in the tempest; they sprang suddenly in the
form of a wild beast; they twisted one’s ankle as a jungle vine. And
every stone-age child knew that the agate protected one against thunder
and against tiger bite. If the agate was ringed like an eye, especially a
tiger’s eye, it could outstare and drive away the fiercest fiend. To turn
away the fangs of the venomous hidden snake, what better charm than lapis
lazuli? Thus each of the colored stones known to the ancients had its
special powers, or could be carved with symbols and signs of might—and
jewels were worn to ward off all misfortune. Even among the ancient
Greeks, it was recognized that (as the slave in Aristophanes’ play
_Plutus_ observes) there is no amulet that can save one from “the bite of
a sycophant.”
The third theory of the origin of adornment, the aesthetic, declares that
man is born with a love of beauty. There is no question—and if there
were, modern research has answered it—that the bright trinket attracts
the babe. When one is happy one wants to sing; when one sees beauty, one
wants to experience it with the gift of sight or, if it is tangible, to
put it on. And ever to increase earth’s store of beauty. We cannot snare
a sunrise, but we can make a garland of spring flowers. Even before he
fashioned beads, primitive man adorned himself with necklaces of shells,
of bears’ claws, stags’ teeth—probably also of many colored berries,
but these have crumbled in the caves. Such findings are so widespread
that Carlyle declared: “The first spiritual want of a barbarous man is
decoration.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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