Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornment — John Shaqi
Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornmentOstier, Marianne
History
Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornment
Ostier, Marianne
Jewelry
_Chrysoberyl_
The various stones beginning with _chrys_ (Greek for gold) should in the
main be yellow. Chrysoberyl is a yellowish, sometimes slightly greenish,
mineral, beryllium aluminate, chemically Be Al₂O₄. It has been used for
adornment since ancient times.
_Chrysolite_
This is a rather common yellow silicate of magnesium and iron, of
granular structure. When, as sometimes occurs, it is greenish in tint, it
is called olivine by mineralogists, but when used for adornment jewelers
call it peridot.
Chrysolite is mentioned as one of the foundation stones of the New
Jerusalem prophesied in _Revelations_. Shakespeare has Othello, wrought
with agony over his beloved Desdemona whom he believes unfaithful,
exclaim:
Nay, had she been true,
If heaven would make me such another world
Of one entire and perfect chrysolite
I’d not have sold her for it.
There is indeed beauty in an entire and perfect chrysolite.
_Chrysoprase_
Gold touched with leek (_prason_ is the Greek word for leek) marks the
color of the chrysoprase. It is a light green quartz, a variety of
chalcedony. As chrysoprasus, it is listed in the King James Bible as the
tenth foundation stone of the New Jerusalem.
_Citrine_
Named from the citrus family, citrine is a lemon-yellow variety of
quartz. When clear, it may be used as becomingly as topaz.
_Coral_
Coral is a fairly hard substance, mainly calcium carbonate, made up
of the skeletons of myriads of marine animals called polyps. These
skeletons, attached to one another, through the centuries have formed
shelves in the ocean, or shaped themselves as atolls and far-extending
reefs. Coral may be in many colors, white, black, yellow, blue, and—most
popular in jewelry—shades of pink and red. The reddish shades, the Greeks
inform us, are dyed by the blood of the Gorgon Medusa, whose snake-haired
head, lopped off by Perseus, dripped its gore into the sea as he laid it
by to wash his hands. Scientists inform us the red is produced by the
presence of iron oxide.
The ancient Romans placed coral on cradles, to protect the babe against
the ills of infancy, especially teething. Even today, Italian peasants
use it as a charm against sterility, or in the form of a little bell the
wind might make tinkle to drive off evil spirits. If one has ever knocked
wood, one might place on the babe a ring or a trinket of coral.
References to the beloved one’s coral lips were so frequent in
Renaissance poetry that Shakespeare in revulsion wrote his Sonnet 130:
My mistress’ eyes are nothing like the sun,
Coral is far more red than her lips’ red ...
—And yet, by heaven, I think my love as rare
As any she belied with false compare.
A century later another playwright, William Congreve, also used the image
in a passage of scorn, after describing the physical allure of a great
beauty:
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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