Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornmentOstier, Marianne
History
Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornment
Ostier, Marianne
Jewelry
But soon as e’er the beauteous idiot spoke,
Forth from her coral lips such folly broke
Like balm the trickling nonsense healed my wound,
And what her eyes enthralled, her tongue unbound.
How true love grows through a lifetime by tiny, unnoticed moments is
beautifully pictured—to give an instance of a happier use of a coral
image—by the nineteenth-century poet Coventry Patmore:
... Fondness for her underwent
An unregarded increment
Like that which lifts, through centuries,
The coral reef within the seas.
_Garnet_
The garnet is a hard glass-like silicate mineral. It is found in many
colors: green, yellow, orange, pink and black. When it is a deep,
translucent red, it can be used to form a beautiful jewel. Its name
is a corruption of _granate_, seeded, as also in the pomegranate, the
seed-apple.
The garnet is sometimes cut faceted. The deep red, cabochon cut is
sometimes called a carbuncle, which means glowing coal. In trade terms,
the pyrope garnet is a deep blood red; the almandine garnet a violet
red. The Adelaide, Cape and Colorado “rubies” all are garnets.
_Hyacinth_
The color of the flower and the stone have given note to the name
hyacinth. In ancient times, the word was probably used to designate
what we call the sapphire. Today it is applied to any of the reddish or
purplish varieties of the garnet, topaz, or zircon.
_Jacinth_
_Jacinth_ is really another form of the word _hyacinth_. It is used, now,
especially to denote a reddish orange variety of zircon. The jacinth was
a favorite jewel of ancient times, its mention ranging from the Bible to
the _Thousand and One Nights_.
_Jade_
Two silicates of lime and magnesium are called jade. One, the true jade,
is a complex silicate also called jadeite. It is a tough substance,
usually green or white, and somewhat translucent. The other, less
valuable form, called nephrite, occurs in other colors.
Found in Burma and India, also in Mexico and Central America, jade did
not enter early into western literature; English mentions of jade usually
refer to the horse.
The word jade is from the Spanish _piedra de yjada_, stone of the side.
It is named from the belief that the stone counteracted pains in the
sides and kidneys. And the word nephrite is from Greek _nephros_, kidney.
Chinese women, indeed, clutched a piece of jade tightly in their hands
during childbirth. They had a double purpose in this: the stone, being
an effective charm, lessened their labor pains; and, being a symbol
of aristocracy, it ensured the male infant high rank and the female
a successful marriage. Mandarins, though not for the same reasons,
sometimes “spiked” their rice wine with powdered jade.
A piece of the deep green stone called imperial jade is one of the most
beautiful stones to look upon, and one of the most pleasant to touch. It
combines superbly with diamonds to create handsome jewels.
_Jasper_
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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