Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornmentOstier, Marianne
History
Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornment
Ostier, Marianne
Jewelry
Jasper was a stone treasured in antiquity. Although Biblical references
indicate a greenish stone, the jasper we know today is usually reddish,
yellow, or brown, in mottled colors. It is an opaque variety of quartz.
The jasper was sometimes used as a symbol of perfection. Thus the Scot
poet William Dunbar, about 1525, hailed the growing capital of England:
London, thou art the flower of cities all!
Gem of all joy, jasper of jocundity!
One might suspect Dunbar of bringing in the jasper to chime with the
jocundity, were it not more likely that he brought in the jocundity to
chime with the jasper!
_Jet_
This stone, which gives its name to its color, a shiny dark black, might
be called kissing kin to the diamond. It is a kind of lignite, one of
the forms of pure carbon, differing from coal and diamond only in the
arrangement of the molecules. It is an intense black in color but very
soft.
The name jet is from the Greek _gagates_, which indicates that it comes
from Gagas, a town and a river of Lycia in Asia Minor. Jet, however, was
known also to the ancient Celts, who carved it.
Although its color has made it popular mainly for religious and
especially (in the western world) for mourning motifs, jet has a bright
glow upon its black that can be effective in earclips and other jewel
forms.
_Kunzite_
Named for the American gem expert George F. Kunz (1856—1932), kunzite
is a stone of attractive lilac crystals. It is a transparent variety of
spodumene which is a crystalline mineral, lithium aluminum silicate,
chemically Li Al (Si O₃)₂. Spodumene is usually yellow or light green; in
its more delicate shadings, used for ornament, it is now called kunzite.
_Lapis Lazuli_
Known from earliest times, and in high repute as an ornamental stone,
lapis lazuli is a mixture of various minerals. It is azure blue and
opaque, usually with tiny golden flecks. The name means the azure stone.
Some old-time customs and cures, persisting in spite of superior smiles
and “scientific” derision, have been found to incorporate materials which
modern medicine has in its time welcomed into the pharmacopoeia, the
checkbook of current remedies. In ancient times, lapis lazuli was used
as a “charm” against bleeding of the nose, against inflammation of the
eyes, against any kind of hemorrhage. The Egyptians prescribed lapis
lazuli 4,000 years before chemists noted the astringent qualities of
copper oxide—which is what gives the golden flecks to lapis lazuli.
_Malachite_
Malachite is a basic copper carbonate, chemically CuCO₃Cu(OH)₂. It can be
highly polished and takes its name from the green color of the leaves of
the mallow plant, the marsh variety of which gives its name to a popular
candy. The stone is used for small boxes and other decorative pieces;
well polished, it makes an attractive ring.
_Moonstone_
Moonstone is a milky-white translucent variety of feldspar, with a pearly
lustre.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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