Journal of a Tour in the Years 1828-1829, through Styria, Carniola, and Italy, whilst Accompanying the Late Sir Humphry DavyTobin, J. J.
History
Journal of a Tour in the Years 1828-1829, through Styria, Carniola, and Italy, whilst Accompanying the Late Sir Humphry Davy
Tobin, J. J.
Davy, Humphry, Sir, 1778-1829; Europe -- Description and travel
apparently devoutly praying for those souls who had been dear to them
whilst upon earth. The devotion of many, however, was not so abstract
as to render them indifferent to the presence of Sir Humphry, whose
appearance, it is true, was likely to abstract attention, even though
unknown, wrapped up as he was in a large mantle lined with white fur.
In all the churches which we visited, the priests and attendants were
busied in preparing them for the next day, (Good Friday.) Though the
subject represented, the Tomb of Christ, with its surrounding scenery,
attendants, and guards, was the same in every church, it was much more
beautifully executed in some than in others. A part of the church was
in general nearly encircled and darkened by hangings of black cloth,
and a recess was thus formed, in which, in some of the churches, a
stage of considerable depth was erected, on which was painted the
scene of the tomb, with its figures, side scenes, and distant views,
very skilfully managed. The perspective was well kept; and the whole
being very well illuminated by unseen lamps, the effect was quite
theatrical.
Leaving these scenes of papal devotion, we drove to the harbour, a
work of Napoleon's, which, like most of his other works, is remarkable
for its strength and durability. Its size is not very striking; but it
was tolerably well filled with shipping of all nations, amongst which
I observed many English, and some North-American vessels. From thence
we drove through the town; and Sir Humphry could not omit paying a
visit to the fish-market, which, luckily for his white mantle, was not
Billingsgate. The market did not appear to be very well stocked, and
he could find nothing remarkable or new to satisfy his ever active
curiosity. The town appears clean, and has some large open streets, the
principal of which is called the Mere, in which our hotel, _Le Grand
Laboureur_, is situated; it possesses no very remarkable buildings; and
the town house and the celebrated exchange, make, at least externally,
a very poor show. The picture gallery, which is said to be very
excellent, was unfortunately closed, it being a _fête_ day. Our visits
to the churches and the different parts of the town had fully occupied
our morning, and in the evening after dinner I read to Sir Humphry
Voltaire's "Histoire de la Voyage de la Raison," and finished the
"Bravo," which he much admired.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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