Cape of Good Hope (South Africa) -- Description and travel
I am puzzled what to think of the climate here for invalids. The air is
dry and clear beyond conception, and light, but the sun is scorching;
while the south-east wind blows an icy hurricane, and the dust obscures
the sky. These winds last all the summer, till February or March. I am
told when they don’t blow it is heavenly, though still cold in the
mornings and evenings. No one must be out at, or after sunset, the chill
is so sudden. Many of the people here declare that it is death to weak
lungs, and send their _poitrinaires_ to Madeira, or the south of France.
They also swear the climate is enervating, but their looks, and above all
the blowsy cheeks and hearty play of the English children, disprove that;
and those who come here consumptive get well in spite of the doctors, who
won’t allow it possible. I believe it is a climate which requires great
care from invalids, but that, with care, it is good, because it is
bracing as well as warm and dry. It is not nearly so warm as I expected;
the southern icebergs are at no great distance, and they ice the
south-east wind for us. If it were not so violent, it would be
delicious; and there are no unhealthy winds—nothing like our east wind.
The people here grumble at the north-wester, which sometimes brings rain,
and call it damp, which, as they don’t know what damp is, is excusable;
it feels like a _dry_ south-wester in England. It is, however, quite a
delusion to think of living out of doors, here; the south-easters keep
one in nearly, if not quite, half one’s time, and in summer they say the
sun is too hot to be out except morning and evening. But I doubt that,
for they make an outcry about heat as soon as it is not cold. The
transitions are so sudden, that, with the thermometer at 76°, you must
not go out without taking a thick warm cloak; you may walk into a
south-easter round the first spur of the mountain, and be cut in two. In
short, the air is cold and bracing, and the sun blazing hot; those whom
that suits, will do well. I should like a softer air, but I may be
wrong; when there is only a moderate wind, it is delicious. You walk in
the hot sun, which makes you perspire a very little; but you dry as you
go, the air is so dry; and you come in untired. I speak of slow walking.
There are no hot-climate diseases; no dysentery, fever, &c.
_Simon’s Bay_, 18_th_ _Nov._—I came on here in a cart, as I felt ill from
the return of the cold weather. While at Rathfelder we had a superb day,
and the J—s drove me over to Constantia, which deserves all its
reputation for beauty. What a divine spot!—such kloofs, with silver
rills running down them! It is useless to describe scenery. It was a
sort of glorified Scotland, with sunshine, flowers, and orange-groves.
We got home hungry and tired, but in great spirits. Alas! next day came
the south-easter—blacker, colder, more cutting, than ever—and lasted a
week.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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