Cape of Good Hope (South Africa) -- Description and travel
The Walkers came over on horseback, and pressed me to go to them. They
are most kind and agreeable people. The drive to Simon’s Bay was lovely,
along the coast and across five beaches of snow-white sand, which look
like winter landscapes; and the mountains and bay are lovely.
Living is very dear, and washing, travelling, chemist’s bills—all
enormous. Thirty shillings a cart and horse from Rathfelder here—twelve
miles; and then the young English host wanted me to hire another cart for
one box and one bath! But I would not, and my obstinacy was stoutest.
If I want cart or waggon again, I’ll deal with a Malay, only the fellows
drive with forty Jehu-power up and down the mountains.
A Madagascar woman offered to give me her orphan grandchild, a sweet
brown fairy, six years old, with long silky black hair, and gorgeous
eyes. The child hung about me incessantly all the time I was at
Rathfelder, and I had a great mind to her. She used to laugh like baby,
and was like her altogether, only prettier, and very brown; and when I
told her she was like my own little child, she danced about, and laughed
like mad at the idea that she could look like ‘pretty white Missy’. She
was mighty proud of her needlework and A B C performances.
It is such a luxury to sleep on a real mattrass—not stuffed with dirty
straw; to eat clean food, and live in a nice room. But my cough is very
bad, and the cruel wind blows on and on. I saw the doctor of the Naval
Hospital here to-day. If I don’t mend, I will try his advice, and go
northward for warmth. If you can find an old Mulready envelope, send it
here to Miss Walker, who collects stamps and has not got it, and write
and thank dear good Lady Walker for her kindness to me.
You will get this about the new year. God bless you all, and send us
better days in 1862.
LETTER IV
JOURNEY TO CALEDON
Caledon, Dec. 10th.
I DID not feel at all well at Simon’s Bay, which is a land of hurricanes.
We had a ‘south-easter’ for fourteen days, without an hour’s lull; even
the flag-ship had no communication with the shore for eight days. The
good old naval surgeon there ordered me to start off for this high
‘up-country’ district, and arranged my departure for the first _possible_
day. He made a bargain for me with a Dutchman, for a light Malay cart (a
capital vehicle with two wheels) and four horses, for 30_s._ a day—three
days to Caledon from Simon’s Bay, about a hundred miles or so, and one
day of back fare to his home in Capetown.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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