Origin and Early History of the Fashion PlateNevinson, J. L. (John Lea)
History
Origin and Early History of the Fashion Plate
Nevinson, J. L. (John Lea)
Fashion -- History
[Footnote 20: There are two editions of the book by CESARE
VECELLIO: _De gli habiti antichi e moderni_ . . . (Venice: Zenaro,
1590 [Italian text]); _Habiti Antichi e Moderni_ (Venice: Sessa,
1598 [Italian and Latin text]). The quality of the woodblocks and
impressions varies considerably.]
[Footnote 21: Translated, this reads: “Underneath, the habit of
the ladies [who imitate the Duchess] is to wear the farthingale or
pleated frock, which skillfully holds the petticoat out wide like
a bell. This fashion is extremely convenient for walking or
dancing, and nowadays, ladies throughout all Italy wear this
pleated frock mentioned above.” (1590 ed., folio 187.a.)]
[Footnote 22: Translated, this reads: “The originator of these
beautiful fabrics in Venice is Master Bartholomew Bontempele at
the sign of the ‘Chalice.’ From time to time at exhibitions he
makes of these materials he has created, he shows the greatness of
his intellect, which is accompanied by an incomparable generosity
and kindness for which he is greatly loved by the Venetian
nobility, by many princes of Italy, and in particular by his
Serene Highness the Duke of Mantua. In his store, to which many
gentlemen and princes send orders, even the Seraglio of the Grand
Turk, are to be seen brocades worked in all manners of gold and
silver.” (1590 ed., folio 139.)]
[Footnote 23: There is an excellent reprint of Buytewech’s book
with an introduction by W. BRUHN (1926).]
[Footnote 24: C. LE BLANC, _Manuel de l’amateur des estampes_
(1854), no. 549-560.]
[Footnote 25: For examples, see A. BLUM, _L’oeuvre gravé de
Abraham Bosse_ (1924), nos. 957-961; the plate “Pompe funèbre de
la Mode,” by A. BLUM (in _Les Modes au XVIIme siècle_, 1927),
p. 21; and F. P. WILSON, “Funeral obsequies of Sir
All-in-new-fashions” (in _Shakespeare Survey_, 1958), p. 98.]
[Footnote 26: J. L. NEVINSON, “Fashion Plates and Fashion,
1625-35,” _Apollo_ (1950) vol. 51, pp. 138-140.]
[Footnote 27: GUSTAVE PARTHEY, _Kurzes Verzeichniss der
Hollarschen Kupferstichen_ (1853), nos. 606-609.]
[Footnote 28: GUSTAVE PARTHEY, _Kurzes Verzeichniss der
Hollarschen Kupferstichen_ (1853), nos. 1908-12, 1930-33.]
[Footnote 29: PARTHEY, ibid., nos. 1946-51.]
[Footnote 30: JOHN EVELYN, _Tyrannus or the Mode_ (1661).
Facsimile reprint with introduction by J. L. NEVINSON (Oxford:
Luttrell Society, 1951), no. 11.]
[Footnote 31: E. S. DE BEER, “King Charles II’s own fashion,”
_Warburg Institute Journal_ (1935), vol. 2, no. 2, p. 105.]
[Footnote 32: Translated, this reads: “. . . nothing is more
pleasing than the styles born in France . . . . This is why much
relating to dress is imported from France into all the provinces
of the world, though the final dress is not exactly French.”]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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