Scrambles Amongst the Alps in the Years 1860-69Whymper, Edward
History
Scrambles Amongst the Alps in the Years 1860-69
Whymper, Edward
Alps -- Description and travel; Mountaineering -- Alps -- History -- 19th century; Mountaineers -- Biography; Whymper, Edward, 1840-1911
What power must have been required to shatter and to sweep away the
missing parts of this pyramid; for we do not see it surrounded by heaps
of fragments: one only sees other peaks—themselves rooted to the
ground—whose sides, equally rent, indicate an immense mass of débris,
of which we do not see any trace in the neighborhood. Doubtless this is
that débris which, in the form of pebbles, boulders and sand, fills our
valleys and our plains,—de Saussure.
Two summits amongst those in the Alps which yet remained virgin had
excited my admiration. One of these had been attacked numberless times
by the best mountaineers without success: the ether, surrounded by
traditional inaccessibility, was almost untouched. These mountains were
the Weisshorn and the Matterhorn.
After visiting the great tunnel of the Alps in 1861, I wandered for ten
days in the neighboring valleys, intending presently to attempt the
ascent of these two peaks. Rumors were floating about that the former
had been conquered, and that the latter was shortly to be attacked, and
they were confirmed on my arrival at Chatillon, at the entrance of the
Val Tournanche. My interest in the Weisshorn abated, but it was raised
to the highest pitch on hearing that Professor Tyndall was at Breuil,
and intending to try to crown his first victory by another and a still
greater one.
Up to this time my experience with guides had not been fortunate, and I
was inclined, improperly, to rate them at a low value. They represented
to me pointers-out of paths and great consumers of meat and drink, but
little more; and, with the recollection of Mont Pelvoux, I should have
greatly preferred the company of a couple of my countrymen to any
number of guides. In answer to inquiries at Chatillon, a series of men
came forward whose faces expressed malice, pride, envy, hatred and
roguery of every description, but who seemed to be destitute of all
good qualities. The arrival of two gentlemen with a guide, who they
represented was the embodiment of every virtue and exactly the man for
the Matterhorn, rendered it unnecessary to engage any of the others. My
new guide in _physique_ was a combination of Chang and Anak; and
although in acquiring him I did not obtain exactly what was wanted, his
late employers did exactly what _they_ wanted, for I obtained the
responsibility, without knowledge, of paying his back fare, which must
have been a relief at once to their minds and to their purses.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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