We now come to the period when lace, so long only made for church
purposes, was very extensively made and used by lay persons for their
personal adornment, and for furnishing purposes. The bed cover Plate 40
was, no doubt, one of many made for a household of simple tastes; the
coarse linen is cut into a fine flowing pattern edged with buttonhole
stitch, and ornamented with various fillings. But in houses of greater
pretension the use of the richest rose-point became lavish, not only on
the dress of the mistress, the collar of the master, but on table covers
and hangings of every kind. Examples of this splendid lace are given in
No. 42 and following plates. No. 44 has, perhaps, the finest toilé; but
the design of No. 45 is very beautiful. No. 46 is a flounce for an alb
of very fine scroll design with brides picotées and occasional raised
work; the beauty of the pattern is better seen in the enlargement, Plate
47. The paten cover, No. 48, and the enlargement of it, No. 49, give a
complete idea of the style and execution of this lace.
The design of the flounce, No. 51, is of the style usually associated
with point de France, the stitches and brides picotées are identical in
workmanship with the Venetian point. It was probably made at Alençon,
Sedan, or one of the other lace-making centres which were started upon
the importation of Venetian laceworkers into France after the middle of
the seventeenth century.
The specimens of Spanish rose-point, Nos. 53 and 54, show the stately
and elaborate design, rather overloaded with ornament, which is
characteristic of this lace.
The Venetian point à réseau was made from about 1650 in Venice and
Burano. The cap shown in No. 56 has a beautiful flowing design of a
scroll with flowers and leaves, and brides connecting some portions of
the design. The main ground is of small mesh réseau worked the length of
the lace, which is often the case in Venetian work, though I have never
seen it in Alençon lace, the réseau being, as far as I know, usually
worked across the lace by the early French workers. (Later, the réseau
of the Alençon lace was worked obliquely, as can be seen by examining
Plate 67, and the specimens I have seen of modern Alençon are also
worked in this way.)
Plates 59 and 60 show interesting specimens of this very rare Venetian
lace. No. 2, in the latter plate, is probably a specimen worked in
France.
The ground of No. 59 is of brides picotées arranged into hexagonal
meshes, a ground which is chiefly associated with the point de France,
and this specimen was no doubt from Alençon.
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