About 1660 important centres of lace-making were developed and
subsidised in France by the Government at Alençon, Paris, Sedan, and
other places, and the French needle-point then made was scarcely to be
distinguished from the Venetian. This was to be expected, as the first
workers of lace of this kind in France were imported from Venice. In a
letter to Colbert, the minister of Louis XIV., dated 1665, Catherine de
Marcq writes, "I am starting for Alençon with four Venetian lace
workers."[N]
[N] Bibliothèque Nationale, "Lettres à Colbert," vol. 132, fo. 14
bis.
As our King Charles II. revived his father's edict against foreign lace
at about the same time (1662), it would almost seem a concerted action
to check the Italian and Flemish superiority in the fabrication of the
finest lace, whether needle- or bobbin-made. But although the French
were successful in part in rivalling the Venetian needle-point, the
finest bobbin-lace of Flanders was never approached by the English
workers, and now, of course, can never be equalled, as the secret of the
thread used in the finest laces, such as Angleterre, Binche, etc., is
lost.
Nothing was too ambitious for the Venetian or French designers of the
seventeenth century. Coats of arms under canopies, scriptural or
classical figures, wreaths and vases of flowers, were frequently worked
into the same design for a piece of lace. The subsequent changes of
design which took place in the Alençon lace are most interesting to
note, the patterns gradually losing their Venetian character. In No. 61
vases and pots of flowers are introduced, and the floral patterns of the
specimens which follow become more and more realistic in drawing.
Towards the end of the reign of Louis XVI. enormous quantities of lace
were required for the new fashion of frills and flounces, and the change
in design is much marked by the adoption of borders of very light
effect, the réseau ground being spotted with little sprigs, slender
riband devices, and dots or pois, whence the term semé de larmes. (_See_
Plate 66.) In the numerous specimens shown, the changing fashion can be
marked, until in Plates 64 to 67 the Venetian character of the designs
of Alençon needle-point has quite disappeared. The patterns are
practically designed for borders only; and the réseau is, as I have
said, spotted with tiny sprigs, or dots. The expression semé de larmes
is said to have arisen in allusion to the misfortunes of Queen Marie
Antoinette, by whom much lace of this style was worn.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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