Straw Hats: Their history and manufactureInwards, Harry
History
Straw Hats: Their history and manufacture
Inwards, Harry
Hats; Straw industries
The question of penetration of the straw is one that has keenly
exercised the minds of straw dyers from the inception of the industry.
Many are the opinions as to the best medium for rapid and regular
penetration. And many are the formulae given as being most suitable
agents. It is probable that straws, grown on different geological
formations and thus having different varieties of silicate exteriors,
require different baths of softening chemicals, and that one bath,
excellent for the straw plaits of China, would be inefficient for the
straw plaits of Italy. Generally speaking, however, these baths are
formed of water with some neutral salt, such as _sodium acetate_;
or of an alkaline solution of _sodium carbonate_ with _ammonia_.
But the less that is done in the way of such softening before dyeing
the better; because the longer straw plait is boiled the more it is
impoverished. And as these preliminary processes involve boiling
in every case, impoverishment must take place, and where alkaline
solutions are used the results are especially poor. Another objection
to the use of softeners is that they tend to loosen the straws of the
plait, and as each process involves manipulation, the handling of the
loosened plait tends to break it considerably.
Yet another objection is that certain shades of colour are most
adversely affected by the previous use of such agents, in fact some
tones cannot be produced at all on plaits thus treated. While in a few
cases it is perhaps necessary and advisable to employ a softener, in by
far the greater number the best results are those obtained from that
formula which involves the fewest processes and the shortest time of
boiling, and this can best be obtained where dyestuffs are used that do
not require any previous preparation of the plait.
The dyeing of straw is almost invariably done at the boil. The dyeing
matter, with any necessary addition, is put into the vat or copper
and well mixed with the requisite amount of water. The plait is then
introduced and laid carefully and regularly so that when pressed down
the solution may cover it.
[Illustration: Fig. 8 BLEACHING AND DYEING OF PLAITS AND HOODS]
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