Graveyard.—Childish Plays.—Cheerful Graves.—Grave of Goethe’s Mother.— Inscription.—Lovely Sentiment.—Coffin of Goethe.—Wealthy Jew.— Humiliation.—Ancient Glory.—Ariadne.—Elegant Cars.—Smokers.—Pine Forests.—Women’s Rights.—Beer Drinking.—A Good Arrangement.— Frankfort-on-the-Oder.—Krewz.—Dinner.—Gardens.—Scenery.—Nakal.— Bromberg.—Wedges.—Attentive Servant.—Frontier.—Passports.—The Vistula.—Poland.—Warsaw 264 CHAPTER XXII. WARSAW. Historic Legend.—The Jesuits.—Partition.—Last Insurrection.—Nationality crushed out.—Attempted Insurrection.—Defeat.—Warsaw.—Armed Despotism.— Discontent.—Precarious Prosperity.—Russian Rule and Language.—Fate of a Spy.—Consequence.—Russian Soldiery.—Ill-manners.—Botanical Gardens.— Observatory.—Palace.—Sobieski’s Monument.—Grave Error.—Illumination.— Streets.—Drunkenness.—Climate.—Lutheran Church.—Relics of Romanism.— Mendicants.—Jewish Quarter.—Hospital.—War of Religions.—Statue of the Virgin.—Little Russia.—Funeral.—English Cock 273 CHAPTER XXIII. FROM WARSAW TO ST. PETERSBURG. Pretentious Hotel.—Splendid Bridge.—Polite Ticket-seller.—Cars.— Prairie.—Wretched Peasantry.—Jews.—Railroad Employes.—Lapy.—Mother and Son.—Bialystok.—Grodno.—Diet of Poland.—Last King of Poland.—Jewish Holiday.—Lithuania.—Plains.—Napoleon’s Hill.—Monument.—Wilna.—Ruins.— Insurrection.—Babel.—Dunaberg.—Captive.—Short Night.—Serfs.—Reform.— Board of Arbitrators.—Emancipation.—Pskof.—Lady Smoker.—St. Petersburg 284 CHAPTER XXIV. ST. PETERSBURG. Searching Process.—Peculiar Costumes.—Rough Streets.—Russian Bath.— Dinner.—Model Guide.—Elegant Diction.—Peter the Great.—Catharine I.— Striking Contrasts.—Accommodating Weather.—Palace of the Emperor.— Column of Alexander.—Statue of Peter the Great.—Boy Czars.—Peter’s Lawyers.—Devotion.—Cathedral.—Trophies.—Isaac’s Cathedral.—Amazing Splendor.—Worship.—Offerings.—Holy of Holies.—Behind the Scenes.— Careful Husbands.—Greek and Romish Churches.—Lent.—Sabbath.—Exorcism.— Honors paid the Virgin 293 CHAPTER XXV. RUSSIAN ART, CUSTOMS, AND MANNERS.