It is curious in this connection to notice the part played by the
Church in the early history of mountaineering. This is not surprising.
The local curé lived in the shadow of the great peaks that dominated
his valley. He was more cultured than the peasants of his parish; he
was more alive to the spiritual appeal of the high places, and he
naturally took a leading part in the assaults on his native mountains.
The Titlis and Monte Leone were first climbed by local monks. The
prior of the St. Bernard made, as we have seen, a remarkable conquest
of a great local peak; and five years later M. Clément, the curé of
Champery, reached the summit of the Dent du Midi, that great battlement
of rock which forms a background to the eastern end of Lake Geneva.
Bourrit, as we shall see, was an ecclesiastic with a great love for the
snows. Father Placidus à Spescha was the pioneer of the Tödi; and local
priests played their part in the early attempts on the Matterhorn from
Italy. “One man, one mountain” was the rule of many an early pioneer;
but Murith’s love of the snows was not exhausted by this ascent of the
Velan. He had already explored the Valsorey glacier with Saussure, and
the Otemma glacier with Bourrit. A few years after his conquest of the
Velan he turned his attention to the fine wall of cliffs that binds in
the Orny glacier on the south.
Bourrit, who wrote up Murith’s notes on the Velan, was one of the
most remarkable of this group of pioneers. He was a whole-hearted
enthusiast, and the first man who devoted the most active years of
his life to mountaineering. He wins our affection by the readiness
with which he gave others due credit for their achievements, a
generous characteristic which did not, however, survive the supreme
test--Paccard’s triumph on Mont Blanc. Mountaineers at the end of the
eighteenth century formed a close freemasonry less concerned with
individual achievement than with the furthering of common knowledge.
We have seen, for instance, that De Saussure cared little who made the
first ascent of Mont Blanc provided that the way was opened up for
future explorers. Bourrit’s actual record of achievement was small. His
exploration was attended with little success. His best performance was
the discovery, or rediscovery of the Col de Géant. His great ambition,
the ascent of Mont Blanc, failed. Fatigue, or mountain sickness, or
bad weather, spoiled his more ambitious climbs. But this matters
little. He found his niche in Alpine history rather as a writer than
as a mountaineer. He popularised the Alps. He was the first systematic
writer of Alpine books, a fact which earned him the title, “Historian
of the Alps,” a title of which he was inordinately proud. Best of all,
in an age when mountain appreciation was somewhat rare, he marked
himself out by an unbounded enthusiasm for the hills.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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