It would appear, then, that the so-called first sporting climb has
little claim to that distinction. What, precisely, is meant by
“sporting” in this connection? The distinction seems to be drawn
between those who climb a mountain for the sheer joy of adventure, and
those who were primarily concerned with the increase of scientific
knowledge. The distinction is important; but it is often forgotten
that scientists, like De Saussure, Forbes, Agassiz and Desor, were
none the less mountaineers because they had an intelligent interest in
the geological history of mountains. All these men were inspired by a
very genuine mountaineering enthusiasm. Moreover, before Mr. Wills’s
climb there had been a number of quite genuine sporting climbs. A few
Englishmen had been up Mont Blanc; and, though most of them had been
content with Mont Blanc, they could scarcely be accused of scientific
inspiration. They, however, belonged to the “One man, one mountain,
school,” and as such can scarcely claim to be considered as anything
but mountaineers by accident. Yet Englishmen like Hill, Blackwell,
and Forbes, had climbed mountains with some regularity long before
Mr. Wills made his great ascent; and foreign mountaineers had already
achieved a series of genuine sporting ascents. Bourrit was utterly
indifferent to science; and Bourrit was, perhaps, the first man who
made a regular practice of climbing a snow mountain every year. The
fact that he was not often successful must not be allowed to discount
his sincere enthusiasm. Before 1840, no Englishman had entered the
ranks of regular mountaineers; and by that date many of the great
Alpine monarchs had fallen. Mont Blanc, the outer fortresses of Monte
Rosa, the Finsteraarhorn, King of the Oberland, the Ortler, and the
Glockner, the great rivals of the Eastern Alps, had all been conquered.
The reigning oligarchies of the Alps had bowed their heads to man.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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