Let us concede what must be conceded; even so, we need not fear that
our share in Alpine history will be unduly diminished. Mr. Wills’s
ascent was none the less epoch-making because it was the fourth ascent
of a second-class peak. The real value of that climb is this: It
was one of the first climbs that were directly responsible for the
systematic and brilliant campaign which was in the main conducted by
Englishmen. Isolated foreign mountaineers had already done brilliant
work, but their example did not give the same direct impetus. It was
not till the English arrived that mountaineering became a fashionable
sport; and the wide group of English pioneers that carried off almost
all the great prizes of the Alps between 1854 and the conquest of the
Matterhorn in 1865 may fairly date their invasion from Mr. Justice
Wills’s ascent, a climb which, though not even a virgin ascent and
by no means the first great climb by an Englishman, was none the
less a landmark. Mr. Justice Wills’s vigorous example caught on as
no achievement had caught on. His book, which is full of spirited
writing, made many converts to the new sport.
There had, of course, been many enthusiasts who had preached the sport
before Mr. Justice Wills climbed the Wetterhorn. The earliest of all
Alpine Journals is the _Alpina_, which first expressed the impetus of
the great Alpine campaign. It appeared in 1806, and survived for four
years, though the name was later attached to a magazine which has still
a large circulation in Switzerland. It was edited by Ulysses von Salis;
and it contained articles on chamois-hunting, the ascent of the Ortler,
etc., besides reviews of the mountain literature of the period, such
books, for instance, as those of Bourrit and Ebel. “The Glockner and
the Ortler,” writes the editor, “may serve as striking instances of our
ignorance, until a few years ago, of the highest peaks in the Alpine
ranges. Excluding the Gotthard and Mont Blanc, and their surrounding
eminences, there still remain more than a few marvellous and colossal
peaks which are no less worthy of becoming better known.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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