From 1840, the number of Englishmen taking part in high ascents
increases rapidly; and between 1854 and 1865 the great bulk of virgin
ascents stand to their credit, though it must always be remembered
that these ascents were led by Swiss, French and Italian guides, who
did not, however, do them till the English arrived. Before 1840 a few
Englishmen climbed Mont Blanc; Mrs. and Miss Campbell crossed the Col
de Géant, which had previously been reopened by Mr. Hill; and Mr.
Malkin crossed a few glacier passes. But J. D. Forbes was really the
first English mountaineer to carry out a series of systematic attacks
on the upper snows. Incidentally, his book, _Travels through the
Alps of Savoy_, published in 1843, was the first book in the English
language dealing with the High Alps. A few pamphlets had been published
by the adventurers of Mont Blanc, but no really serious work. Forbes
is, therefore, the true pioneer not only of British mountaineering,
but of the Alpine literature in our tongue. He was a worthy successor
to De Saussure, and his interest in the mountains was very largely
scientific. He investigated the theories of glacier motion, and visited
Agassiz at the “Hôtel des Neuchâtelois.” On that occasion, if Agassiz
is to be believed, the canny Scotsman managed to extract more than
he gave from the genial and expansive Switzer. When Forbes published
his theories, Agassiz accused him of stealing his ideas. Desor, whose
genius for a row was only excelled by the joy he took in getting up
his case, did not improve matters; and a bitter quarrel was the result.
Whatever may have been the rights of the matter, Forbes certainly
mastered the theory of glacier motion, and proved his thorough grasp of
the matter in a rather remarkable way. In 1820, a large party of guides
and amateurs were overwhelmed by an avalanche on the Grand Plateau,
and three of the guides disappeared into a crevasse. Their bodies were
not recovered. Dr. Hamel, who had organised the party, survived. He
knew something of glacier motion, and ventured a guess that the bodies
of the guides would reappear at the bottom of the glacier in about a
thousand years. He was just nine hundred and thirty-nine years wrong in
his calculation. Forbes, having ascertained by experiment the rate at
which the glacier moved, predicted that the bodies would reappear in
forty years. This forecast proved amazingly accurate. Various remains
reappeared near the lower end of the Glacier des Bossons in 1861, a
fragment of a human body, and a few relics came to light two years
later, and a skull, ropes, hat, etc., in 1865. Strangely enough, this
accident was repeated in almost all its details in the famous Arkwright
disaster of 1866.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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