The Art of Needle-work, from the Earliest Ages, 3rd ed.: Including Some Notices of the Ancient Historical TapestriesMenzies, Sutherland, active 1840-1883
History
The Art of Needle-work, from the Earliest Ages, 3rd ed.: Including Some Notices of the Ancient Historical Tapestries
Menzies, Sutherland, active 1840-1883
Needlework; Tapestry
"They have here no bounds to this foolish art, for no sooner was
invented the useless art of weaving in figures in a kind of picture,
such as animals of all sorts, than (rich persons) procure flowered
garments, and also those variegated with an infinite number of images,
both for themselves, their wives, and children. . . . . . . Whensoever
thus clothed they go abroad, they go, as it were, painted all over,
and pointing out to one another with the finger the pictures on their
garments.
"For there are lions and panthers, and bears and bulls, and dogs and
woods, and rocks and huntsmen; and, in a word, everything that can be
thought of, all drawn to the life: for it was necessary, forsooth,
that not only the walls of their houses should be painted, but their
coats (tunica) also, and likewise the cloak (pallium) which covers it.
"The more pious of these gentry take their subjects from the Gospel
history: _e.g._ Christ himself with his disciples, or one of the
miracles, is depicted. In this manner you shall see the marriage of
Cana and the waterpots; the paralytic carrying his bed on his
shoulders; the blind man cured by clay; the woman with the issue of
blood taking hold of the border (of Christ's garment); the harlot
falling at the feet of Jesus; Lazarus coming from the tomb: and they
fancy there is great piety in all this, and that putting on such
garments must be pleasing to God."
The palmated garment was figured with palm-leaves, and was a triumphal
or festive garment. It is referred to in an epistle of Gratian to
Augustus: "I have sent thee a palmated garment, in which the name of
our divine parent Constantine is interwoven."
In allusion to these lettered garments Ausonius celebrates Sabina
(textrice simul ac poetria), whose name thus lives when those of more
important personages are forgotten:--
They who both webs and verses weave,
The first to thee, O chaste Minerva, leave;
The latter to the Muses they devote:
To me, Sabina, it appears a sin
To separate two things so near akin,
So I have wrote thy verses on my coat.[7]
And again:
Whether the Tyrian robe your praise demand,
Or the neat verse upon the edge descried,
Know both proceed from the same skilful hand:
In both these arts Sabina takes a pride.[8]
It is imagined that the embroidered vestments worn in Homer's time
bore a strong resemblance to those now worn by the Moguls; and the
custom of making presents, so discernible through his work, still
prevails throughout Asia. It is not (says Sir James Forbes) so much
the custom in India to present dresses ready made to the visitors as
to offer the materials, especially to Europeans. In Turkey, Persia,
and Arabia, it is generally the reverse. We find in Chardin that the
kings of Persia had great wardrobes, where there were always many
hundred habits, sorted, ready for presents, and that more than forty
tailors were always employed in this service.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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