Latterly, these kind of stuffs were made in great quantities at Barcelona, and exported to other Spanish provinces, as well as to America. "Several manufactures of printed linens are established here," wrote Swinburne, in 1775, "but have not yet arrived at any great elegance of design or liveliness of colour." The manuscript (dated about A.D. 1810) attached to my copy of Pigal's plates of Spanish costume, says that the _pañoleta_ or _fichu_ (neckerchief) of the women of Cartagena in their gala-dress was at that time of "mousseline blanche, quelquefois brodé, et três souvent n'est qu'un mouchoir d'indienne des fabriques de Barcelonne, avec une brodure en fleurs rouges, le fond blanc et parsemé de petits bouquets." The same manuscript describes the dress of a cook at Granada:--"Le jupon (_refajo_), qui est toujours três court, est en hiver de laine avec une garniture au bas: en été il est en indienne. Cette _indienne_ est une sorte de percale ou toile de coton peinte, dont il y a plusieurs fabriques en Catalogne. On en exportait autrefois une quantité, immense que l'on portait dans les Amériques Espagnoles; c'est ce qui lui a fait donner le nom d'indienne." From the same source we learn respecting another cotton fabric, which might easily be thought by the unwary reader of to-day to have been of Spanish manufacture, that "l'habitant de Mahon fait en été un grand usage de l'étoffe des Indes appelée _nankin_. Cette étoffe n'est connue dans plusieurs parties de l'Espagne que sous le nom de _Mahon_." [15] In 1799 the Marquis of Monte-Fuerte declared the silk of Seville to be of as fine a quality as that of Valencia and Carmona. (_Discurso sobre el plantío de moreras en Sevilla y sus inmediaciones._) Turning our attention from Seville to Granada, we find that the fame of the silks produced in this latter city, or rather kingdom (for silk was raised in great quantities throughout the entire region) extended as far abroad as Constantinople, and that they were used in Greece in the reign of Comnenus. The Muzarabs, who petitioned Alfonso el Batallador to bring an expedition to their rescue and wrest Granada from her Mussulman lords, reported to him in enthusiastic terms the quality and abundance of the silk of that locality, and many a document and chronicle record its vogue among the Spanish Christians of the Middle Ages.