We hope to spend the late autumn at Como, and then step down into some
of the cities of the South for the winter months. The approved plan is
Florence till about the middle of January, Rome till the beginning
of Lent, then Naples till the Holy Week, whence back again for the
ceremonies. After that, northward wherever you please. All this sounds
like a good deal of locomotion, and, consequently, of expense; but Lord
G. says, "Just leave it to _me_, I'll be your courier;" and as he not
only performs that function, but unites with it that of banker,--he can
get anything discounted at any moment,--I am little disposed to depose
him from his office. Now no more complaints that I have not replied to
you about this, that, and t' other, not informed you about our future
movements, nor given you any hint as to our plans: you know everything
about us, at least so far as it is known to your
Very sincere friend,
Kenny I. Dodd.
As I mentioned in the beginning, I am too late for the post, so I 'll
keep this open if anything should occur to me before the next mail.
The Inn, Splugen, Monday.
I thought this was already far on its way to you; but, to my great
surprise, on opening my writing-desk this morning, I discovered it
there still. The truth is, I grow more absent, and what the French call
"distracted," every day; and it frequently happens that I forget some
infernal bill or other, till the fellow knocks at the door with "the
notice." Here we are, at a little inn on the very top of the Alps.
We arrived yesterday, and, to our utter astonishment, found ourselves
suddenly in a land of snow and icebergs. The whole way from Bregenz the
season was a mellow autumn: some of the corn was still standing, but
most was cut, and the cattle turned out over the stubble; the trees were
in full leaf, and the mountain rivulets were clear and sparkling, for no
rain had fallen for some time back. It was a picturesque road and full
of interest in many ways. From Coire we made a little excursion across
the Rhine to a place called Ragatz,--a kind of summer resort for
visitors who come to bathe and drink the waters of Pfeffers, one of
the most extraordinary sights I ever beheld. These baths are built in
a cleft of the mountain, about a thousand feet in depth, and scarcely
thirty wide in many parts; the sides of the precipices are straight as a
wall, and only admit of a gleam of the sun when perfectly vertical. The
gloom and solemnity of the spot, its death-like stillness and shade,
even at noonday, are terribly oppressive. Nor is the sadness dispelled
by the living objects of the picture,--Swiss, Germans, French, and
Italians, swathed in flannel dressing-gowns and white dimity cerements,
with nightcaps and slippers, steal along the gloomy corridors and the
gloomier alleys, pale, careworn, and cadaverous. They come here for
health, and their whole conversation is sickness. Now, however consoling
it may be to an invalid to find a recipient of his sorrows, the price
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