The Gourmet's Guide to LondonNewnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
General
The Gourmet's Guide to London
Newnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
Restaurants -- England -- London -- Guidebooks
I had secured a corner table at a reasonable distance from the band,
which occupies a platform about half-way down the room, and we
enthroned the little cousin on the chair in the angle, so that she
could see everybody and everything in the room. Every table but one was
occupied, and that I knew was reserved for the beautiful young man whom
we had left looking with a frown at cupid's finger. My little French
cousin was in high spirits, and Robert acted as an amiable chorus.
She recognised that the room was French--it is a copy of one of the
salons at Fontainebleau, and perceived that the pictures of cupids,
which are between the round windows and the tall casemented glasses,
were inspired by Boucher. She liked the carved marble mantelpiece and
the crystal and gold electroliers. I was called upon to tell her who
everybody was at the other tables, and I launched out recklessly into
fiction. I knew by sight a dozen of our fellow-diners, and the rest
I described as M.P.'s and ladies of title, officers of the Household
Brigade, and divettes of the Gaiety, Daly's, the Lyric, and the
Shaftesbury, which they probably are, celebrated painters and prima
donnas, according to their appearance. My British cousin choked over
a bone of the trout, so he said, but my little French cousin and her
spouse were much impressed by my exhaustive acquaintance with all the
celebrities of my native city, which was just the effect I wished to
produce.
Little Oddenino, going the round of the tables, saying a word or two to
all his clientele, came to our corner, asked if all was as it should
be, took up the menu, and lifted his eyebrows. Of course I know that
to follow the _noisettes_ by ham was inartistic, but being in the
vein of romance I said that my little French cousin was passionately
fond of ham, and demanded it at all her meals, and not that I prefer
ham to mutton, which would have been the truth. The little man bowed
and smiled and passed on; My cousin asked who he was, and when I
replied, "Oddy," she inquired if it was he who would presently make
the rag-time. Pleased to be on bed-rock truth at last I gave her a
shorthand sketch of Oddenino's career; how Turin is his native town;
how he opened one of the great hotels at Cimiez, and earned the thanks
of the late Queen Victoria and a fine tie-pin when she stayed there;
how he was manager of the East Room at the Criterion, and of the Café
Royal, and from the latter restaurant stepped two doors farther down
Regent Street and built the Imperial Restaurant. I described story
upon story of banqueting-rooms that are to be found on the Glasshouse
Street side, and how Freemasons--good, charitable British Freemasons,
not troublesome political French Freemasons--feast in them in great
numbers every night in the year. I sketched out the little man's other
ventures, and I ended by telling her that Oddenino is a man of much
consideration in the Italian colony in London, and has been decorated
by his king.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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