The Gourmet's Guide to LondonNewnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
General
The Gourmet's Guide to London
Newnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
Restaurants -- England -- London -- Guidebooks
Gone are the great days of the whitebait dinners at Blackwall and
Greenwich. No longer does _The Morning Post_ ever publish such a
paragraph as this, "Yesterday the Cabinet Ministers went down the
river in the ordnance barges to Lovegrove's West India Dock Tavern,
Blackwall, to partake of their annual fish dinner. Covers were laid
for thirty-five gentlemen," which appeared on 10th September 1835. No
longer is there a great rivalry between the two Greenwich taverns, the
Trafalgar and the Ship. The Ship still remains and the whitebait have
not deserted the Thames, but though at intervals I read paragraphs that
fish dinners are still to be obtained at the Ship, I never meet anyone
who has journeyed to Greenwich to see whether this is so, and the last
time that I went there to dine my reception was so chilly that I have
not experimented again. But the account of that dinner may interest
as showing what a Greenwich fish dinner was in the days of good King
Edward.
* * * * *
It was pleasant to see Miss Dainty's (of all the principal London
theatres) handwriting again. She had been very ill--at the point of
death, indeed--owing to a sprained ankle, which prevented her going
to Ascot, for which race meeting she had ordered three dresses, each
of which was a dream. When was I going to take her out to dinner? The
parrot was very well, but was pecking the feathers out of his tail.
She had some new pets--two goldfish, whose glass bowl had been broken
and who now lived in a big yellow vase. The cat had eaten one of the
lovebirds, and was ill for two days afterwards. The pug had been
exchanged for a fox-terrier--Jack, the dearest dog in the world. Jack
had gone up the river on the electric launch and had fought two dogs,
and had been bitten over the eye, and had covered all his mistress's
white piqué skirt with blood; but for all that he was a duck and his
mother's own darling.
This, much summarised, was the pretty little lady's letter, and I wrote
back at once to say that the pleasure of entertaining a princess of
the blood-royal was as nothing to the honour of her company, and if
the foot was well enough, would she honour me with her presence at
dinner anywhere she liked? And, as the weather had turned tropical, I
suggested either Greenwich or the restaurant at Earl's Court.
For Greenwich the fair lady gave her decision, and then I made a
further suggestion: that, if she did not mind unaristocratic company,
the pleasantest way was to go by boat.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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