The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present timeChallamel, Augustin
History
The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present time
Challamel, Augustin
Clothing and dress -- France -- History
But without further digression let us return to the fashions of 1559-60,
and to the edicts of the period.
When we speak of past fashions, alas! we must always mention sumptuary
laws at the same time; that is to say, remedial measures against the
excesses of caprice and luxury. As if wisdom could be decreed by law!
We know their unsuccessful results. But even at the present day, when
difference of rank is no longer marked by difference of dress, we
sometimes meet with persons who are indignant with a working woman if
she ventures to wear a silk gown or a velvet cape on Sunday.
“No, I cannot understand the Government not interfering,” exclaimed
a charming “great lady,” the other day in my presence. “Only a week
ago I was almost elbowed in the Champs Elysées by a girl with a gown
identically like my own! It is really disgraceful!”
In a conciliatory tone I replied, “Probably she had good taste like
yourself.”
“It is disgusting! because, after all, the rest of the costume did not
harmonize with the gown, and the effect was wretched.”
“You must have been glad of that, madame.”
“Glad?”
“Yes; for harmony is everything, or almost everything in dress; and if
that young workwoman could not display an Indian shawl like yours, you
have nothing to complain of.”
“On the contrary, I do complain. Extravagance and ‘equality’ in dress are
the ruin of scores of working girls. There ought to be a law against it.”
“There were laws in former times, madame,” I replied; “but they were an
absolute failure.”
And then I repeated almost word for word what I have said farther back in
this book, concerning reforms imposed by law. But all my arguments failed
to convince my hearer, who was blinded by her prejudices. It is certain
that sumptuary laws, even if they could be revived at the present day,
would be as ineffectual as in the Middle Ages or the Renaissance. Neither
fines nor even imprisonment would put a stop to coquetry, in whatever
rank of life.
The opinions of my fair friend were probably the opinions of ladies
in the reign of Henri II., for in the exordium of an edict issued by
that king on July 12, 1549, we read that “gentlemen and their wives
went to excessive expense for their gold and silver stuffs, their
embroideries, braids, borderings, goldsmiths’ work, cords, cannetilles,
velvets, satins, or silks striped with gold and silver.” These articles,
therefore, were forbidden, except to princes and princesses. Those
exalted persons, however, set a bad example in the matter, that was too
often followed.
The chapter of prohibitions having been thus begun, arbitrary measures
became numerous. A maximum was actually fixed for marriage portions!
Fathers and mothers, or grandparents giving their daughter or
granddaughter in marriage, might not endow her with more than 10,000
livres (Tournois)! Truly a most obnoxious regulation! for was not such a
law an interference with marriage, and an encroachment on the rights of
parents?
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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