The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present timeChallamel, Augustin
History
The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present time
Challamel, Augustin
Clothing and dress -- France -- History
When foreign fashions were likely to add to their attractions,
Frenchwomen have never refused to adopt them. They have alternately worn
pretty articles of dress from Spain, or copied the costumes of our fair
English neighbours, to which they imparted an elegance all their own.
They have seldom cared for the severe German style, but from Italy they
have frequently borrowed some of her Southern graces, offspring of that
sunny land and deep blue sky!
Thus, in the sixteenth century, did Italian fashions cross the Alps with
Catherine de Médicis. Heaven only knows whether the fine ladies of the
court were most interested in the bloodshed of the fatal night of August
24, 1572, or in the quantity of Milanese silks imported about the same
time. I have not the heart to blame them for turning away from such
frightful episodes.
But wherefore this love for the products of Italy, for the perfumed
sachets of Venice, for the gold filagree-work of Genoa? Until that period
Frenchwomen appear to have been unacquainted even with the names of the
countries which form the shores of the Adriatic, and suddenly they become
versed in all the minute details of the costumes of those countries!
This must not surprise my readers. Only that I fear to be tedious,
I would remind them that little things may spring from great, as
well as great things from little, and I would enter upon a lengthy
historico-philosophic dissertation.
Let it suffice to state that the filagree-work of Genoa, and the perfumed
sachets of Venice, found their way into France as a consequence of
the fatal expeditions of Charles VIII., Louis XII., and Francis I.
into Italy. From Italy also came cambric handkerchiefs embroidered in
tent-stitch with red silk.
I need not dilate further on this subject, but I will add that we may fix
the period of which I am speaking as that of an invasion of France, by
fashions of Italian prodigality, and sudden and striking effect.
Charles IX. was entertained one day at dinner by a gentleman from the
south. Towards the end of the banquet the ceiling suddenly opened, a
dense cloud descended, and burst with a noise like thunder into a
hailstorm of sweetmeats, followed by a gentle shower of perfumed water.
We may judge from this instance how childish were the splendid customs of
the age, and understand the edicts by which the king vainly endeavoured
to curb the folly of his courtiers, who vied with him in magnificent
extravagance, and ruined themselves by their efforts to rise to the
height of the times, and to shine in galas and private entertainments.
We must begin by stating in a general way that the new fashions for women
were immensely popular, and influenced those for men in the highest
degree.
Gentlemen adopted an effeminate style of dress, which unfortunately
was perpetuated and developed in no small measure by their immediate
descendants.
Charles IX., however, openly professed his contempt for extreme attention
to dress.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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