The Holyhead Road: The Mail-coach Road to Dublin. Vol. 2Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Holyhead Road: The Mail-coach Road to Dublin. Vol. 2
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
A5 Road (England and Wales); England -- Description and travel; England -- Social life and customs
It is a fine and an interesting town, not wholly given up to factories
and soot, and still keeping a hold upon ancient memories in the great
church of St. Peter, a noble building that, about 1450, rose upon the
site of Wulfrun’s church, and presents as magnificent an example of the
Perpendicular style as anything to be found in the Midlands. Much might
be said of St. Peter’s if this were the place for it—of its rich
interior, of the curious and beautiful carved stone pulpit, and its
grotesque lion, goggling with its stony eyes, erected about 1480, and of
the life-sized bronze statue of Admiral Sir Richard Leveson, by Le Sœur,
that supreme artist who wrought the beautiful equestrian statue of
Charles I. at Charing Cross. But these pages are not for lengthy
archæological disquisitions, and so St. Peter’s must needs he thus
summarised, and even that fruitful source of angry discussion, the
so-called “Dane’s Cross” in the churchyard, must be but mentioned. It is
not a cross, but a circular pillar of red sandstone, standing twenty
feet high, and covered with interlacing ornament that may be either
Saxon or Norman, and is thought by some to be the memorial of a seventh
century battle of Tettenhall.
St. Peter’s and its surroundings form the pleasantest part of
Wolverhampton, and though electric tramways and the press of commerce
make the neighbourhood anything but reverend, the lawns and beautiful
gardens on whose grass and variegated flowers the ancient tower looks
down prove that, although the town is very earnest on the subject of
getting on in the world, it does not, for all the striving, forget all
those gracious things that make life better worth the living.
Of old times there is little, besides the church, remaining, and the one
notable thing, curiously enough, is, or was, connected with the church
itself. This is the old Deanery, built in the reign of Charles II., and
reminiscent of the time when the oddly conjoined Deanery of
Wolverhampton and Windsor lasted, together with the collegiate
establishment dissolved in 1846. The Deanery, a grand old mansion of red
brick, standing in its own grounds, is now a Conservative Club.
To ask a catalogue of what they make in modern manufacturing
Wolverhampton would mean a lengthy and varied list; but to specialise is
an easier task. Locks stand at the head of all products, with more than
sixty firms—Chubb’s the most generally known—engaged in a weekly output
of close upon 400,000 locks; probably as eloquent a testimonial to the
world’s ingrained dishonesty as anything likely to be advanced. Thirty
firms make the attendant keys. Tin-plate working and japanning come
next, with cycle-manufacturing; and at the end of a long list of
hardware industries, five “soot merchants.” There must be great scope
for their business in this neighbourhood of the Black Country, and the
only wonder is that there are not more of them.
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Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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