The himation, or chlaina, appears on ancient monuments stiff and free
from folds, like the chiton. This is a garment resembling a mantle,
which appears in many archaic vase pictures in two distinct forms:
either as a wide cloak covering the greater part of the body, or as a
narrow covering lightly draped. The first form, corresponding to the
later male himation, is most commonly combined with the long chiton. The
cut of this cloak is four-cornered, probably oblong, and it is worn in
such a way that the greater part of it falls behind and covers the back
and part of the legs, while in front it is thrown over the shoulders and
arms, and falls down over the body, two of its points falling within the
arms and the other two without. The other form, which may be in general
compared with the later _chlamys_, is found with both the long and the
short chiton, and is also sometimes worn as the only covering, without
any under garment. This may, however, be regarded as the ideal clothing,
which does not correspond to real life, just as in later monuments we
find the chlamys alone without the chiton. It is put on in such a way
that the lower arm is left uncovered, and the two points fall down in
front over the shoulder and upper arm, while behind it either covers
only the upper part of the back, or else the cloak falls down so far
that its edge is almost as low as the points in front. (Compare Fig. 3,
representing a dance from the François vase.) We cannot pronounce with
certainty on the shape of this cloak. It appears, however, to have been
oval or elliptical, and to have ended in two points; it was folded in
such a way that the folded part was worn inside, while the edges, which
were ornamented with wide borders, fell outside. In Fig. 2, where the
shape of the cloak is that of an ellipse cut through the long axis, the
folding is also evident. I should therefore differ from Helbig in
regarding this narrower chlaina as the garment called in epic poetry
_diplax_. Neither kind of cloak is fastened, and they both differ from
that of later periods in being worn open in front. In Homeric poetry
another kind of chlaina is also mentioned, which corresponds more
closely to the later one; since it is stated that the folded chlaina is
fastened on the shoulder with a brooch. No proof of this, however, has
as yet been found in the older monuments.
[Illustration: FIG. 3.]
As a remnant of the most primitive dress, clothes made of skins, such as
were afterwards worn only by country people, huntsmen and the like,
still existed in the Homeric age. Homer several times mentions skins as
the dress of soldiers; on the older monuments we see them drawn over a
short chiton, and sometimes even fastened with a girdle.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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