Having terminated his researches in these desert scenes, which seem to
have thrown new light upon numerous points of sacred geography, our
traveller returned to Cairo, descended the Nile, and proceeding by sea
to Syria, arrived in that country about the commencement of December,
1721. Here he seems, for he has left no exact account of his movements,
to have pursued nearly the same route with Maundrell, whose description
he regarded as so accurate in general, that he merely noticed such
places and things as had either been omitted or imperfectly represented
by that traveller. Though it was the middle of winter when he passed
through Syria and Phœnicia, the aspect of the country was verdant and
cheerful, particularly the woods, which chiefly consisted of the
gall-bearing oak, at the roots of which the turf was gemmed with
anemones, ranunculuses, colchicums, and the _dudaim_ or mandrakes. The
air here, as in Barbary, is temperate, and the climate healthy; and, in
like manner, westerly winds bring rain, while the east winds, blowing
over immeasurable tracts of land, are generally dry though hazy and
tempestuous.
The excursions of our traveller in this country appear to have been few
and timid, and he remarks, apparently as an apology for this
circumstance, that it was necessary to be upon all occasions attended by
a numerous escort; for that numerous bands of Arabs, from fifty to five
hundred in number, scoured the plains in every direction in search of
booty. But even the presence of an escort was not always a safeguard;
for the caravan with which Dr. Shaw travelled to Jerusalem, consisting
of at least six thousand pilgrims, protected by three or four hundred
spahis and four bands of Turkish infantry, with the mutsellim, or
general, at their head, was attacked by one of the marauding parties,
and treated with the greatest insult and barbarity. Scarcely was there a
pilgrim out of so great a number who was not robbed of part of his
clothes or of his money; and those who had not much of either to lose
were beaten unmercifully with their pikes or javelins. Our traveller
himself was not allowed to remain a mere spectator of the scene, for
when the banditti had taken possession of the visible wealth of the
party, correctly judging that there still remained a considerable
portion which had been adroitly concealed, he was forcibly carried off
among the hostages, which they seized upon to ensure a ransom, to
Jeremiel or Anashoth. In this desperate position he remained all night,
exposed to barbarities and insults, and it is exceedingly probable that
his captivity would have been of much longer duration, had not the Aga
of Jerusalem, with a numerous body of troops, next morning attacked his
captors and set him at liberty.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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