The North Devon CoastHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The North Devon Coast
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
Devon (England) -- Description and travel
Near the shore is the unpretending manor house of Martinhoe: the church
of that parish being situated high above, away among the wild commons
of a little-visited _hinterland_. It was here and at Trentishoe, many
years since, that the future Bishop Hannington, who met a martyr’s
fate in 1885 in the wilds of his African diocese, was curate. He
dressed the part unconventionally, in a manner fitting a neighbourhood
where there were no Dorcas Societies, mothers’ meetings, or any of the
quaint machinery of a modern parish. Only rough farmers and their men,
and wild and unfrequented footpaths formed everyday experiences. The
typical curate would have soon found his conventional dress very much
out of place. Hannington wore Bedford cord knee-breeches of a yellow
hue, yellow Sussex gaiters with brass buttons, and great nailed boots
that would have suited a ploughboy. A short jerkin of black cloth and a
clerical waistcoat that buttoned up the side gave just a professional
hint. In this costume, covered with the surplice, of course, he would
take the services as well; not from any eccentricity, but simply
because the conditions of these rustic parishes demanded it. They
demanded much walking, too. “I see you’ve got fine legs,” Dr. Temple,
the rather grim Bishop of Exeter, said: “mind you run about your
parish.”
Over the wooded hill called Wringapeak, the way now lies on to Heddon’s
Mouth.
[Illustration: WOODA BAY.]
There is no hint of monotony in this grand stretch of coast scenery.
Here nature is full of resources and surprises, and each cliff-profile,
valley, wooded hillside, or little bay is strikingly different from
the last. Leaving Wooda Bay behind, having already, as you think,
tasted every variety of scenic splendour, yet another aspect of these
boundless resources is revealed, in an exquisite wood of dwarf
oaks. Through this delightful boscage, delightful in itself and in the
shade it gives on fervent days, the way lies, as a grassy path. Great
grey boulders, covered with lichen, show on either side, in the half
light, and the foliage of the oaks grows in wonderfully large lustrous
leaves, by favour of this wonderful climate. It is all so quiet. Few
people are ever met here; but, here and there, at infrequent intervals
one finds a retired villa, three-parts hidden behind the shrubs of its
ample grounds. One such you pass, and see amid the woodland trees a
little tombstone to a pet dog; “‘Bruiser,’ a good dog”: concise, yet
all-comprising.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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