The North Devon CoastHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The North Devon Coast
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
Devon (England) -- Description and travel
When rounding successive points, new and ever more beautiful views
are disclosed, and sublime thoughts rise, but they do not find full
expression in that form, because of the loose stones and fragments of
rock that everywhere prodigally strew the cliff-paths. Midway between
Wooda Bay and Heddon’s Mouth, a lovely waterfall comes spouting down
the face of the cliff, in a little bight, the sides of it fringed with
moss and ferns, and at the foot a tangle of trees and bushes that
have found a precarious foothold. Here fragments of rock, like some
prehistoric rubbish-heap, threaten unstable ankles.
These cliffs are simply huge masses of loosely compacted
rubbish--laminated stone embedded in ochreous, friable earth--held
together largely by surface vegetation: gorse, grass, and rock-plants,
and in places the hillsides resemble engineers’ spoil-banks.
But the horned breed of sheep that browse here keep a wonderful
foothold, in places where no human being would dare trust himself on
the slopes, covered with slippery grass. The cliff-path is usually
solitary, and the occasional, nearly human cough of these only living
creatures is therefore at first somewhat startling, in its apparently
half-apologetic note, like that of some Paul Pry, who “hopes he don’t
intrude.” Their clattering walk along the loose flakes of stone, so
plentifully strewn about, is oddly like unseen people roughly handling
piles of dinner-plates.
[Illustration: HEDDON’S MOUTH.]
Presently Heddon’s Mouth bursts upon the view, with all the force of a
revelation. To observe the coast-line from the deck of a vessel--for
example, from one of the big steamers that pass quite close in, on
the way to Ilfracombe--may seem (and is) a luxurious way of seeing
these cliffs and their openings. No foot-soreness, no scrambling amid
incredible rocks: only a patronising passing in review from an easeful
attitude of observation. But then, strangely enough, this majestic
succession of headlands, of bays, and “mouths” is flattened and
fore-shortened and depreciated in a degree incredible to those who have
not tried both methods. Heddon’s Mouth, for example, looks by no means
remarkable from the sea. But viewed from either above or below, on
land, its grandeur is exceptional. From this cliff-path on High Veer,
whence you first see the deep and narrow valley, or gully, or, as a
Central American might say, “cañon,” you look far up the valley in one
direction, and in the other out to sea. The hills on either side are
not rocky. They impress rather by their enormous size and simplicity
of outline. Shelving down steeply to where the Heddon flows at the
bottom, only an occasional outcrop of rock stands up. For the rest,
they are clothed in patches and streaks with bracken and with a short,
wiry innutritious grass, and very largely strewn from top to bottom
with countless thousands of tons of rocky rubbish, blue-grey in general
effect of colour, and in appearance like the refuse on the tip banks
of mines.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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