The North Devon CoastHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The North Devon Coast
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
Devon (England) -- Description and travel
Oddly enough, such a generous distribution of waste material
does not help to spoil the scenery. The hillsides end, seaward, in
grey, red and yellow-brown cliffs, where an old limekiln, like a stone
blockhouse fort, lends a specious air of historic assault and battery
to the scene. Here the Heddon stream comes trickling down among the
boulders of the beach; sometimes indeed, when thunderstorms have vexed
the uplands, swirling down in a coffee-coloured tumult and staining a
calm sea for a long distance out.
[Illustration: “HUNTER’S INN.”]
Winding footpaths lead up the lonely valley and through a wood, and
then conduct to a well-known hostelry in these parts, the Hunter’s Inn.
For many long years this was a picturesque thatched house, but it was
burnt down at last, in 1895, and the new “Hunter’s Inn,” although it is
built very charmingly and in good taste, and really is as picturesque
as the one it replaces, has not yet existed long enough to compel the
affections of the sentimental. There is a nameless something in these
things, an elusive flavour, an unexpected feeling, it may be, that the
old inn was picturesque by accident, as it were, and was the natural
product of its era and surroundings, while the new was created to be
self-consciously pretty. It is a favourite resort of anglers, who,
except in summer, when pedestrians and carriage-parties come this way,
have the inn and the whole valley very much to themselves, for there is
no neighbourly village and Trentishoe is a mile distant, half-way up
one of the steepest of hills.
Trentishoe has a church of the Early English extremely rural type, with
a little insignificant tower; but, although it possesses this church
of its own, no one would accuse it of being a village. Two cottages by
the church, a little group half-way up hill, and another little group
below, by the Heddon, constitute Trentishoe.
The moorland to which the traveller comes is the wild windy waste of
Trentishoe Down and Holdstone Down, considerably over a thousand feet
above the sea, scorching and drouthy in summer and ferociously cold in
winter; but these disadvantages, each in its season, have not prevented
hopeful, would-be sellers of building-sites from erecting the usual
notices of “this desirable” land to be on offer. It has come to this at
last, that all land is in land-agents’ jargon, “desirable,” just as,
conventionally, a naval or military officer is “gallant,” members of
Parliament are “honourable,” and barristers “learned”: to name but a
few of those tags and labels that nowadays mean so little.
[Illustration: TRENTISHOE CHURCH.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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