The Siberian Overland Route from Peking to Petersburg,: Through the Deserts and Steppes of Mongolia, Tartary, &c.Michie, Alexander
History
The Siberian Overland Route from Peking to Petersburg,: Through the Deserts and Steppes of Mongolia, Tartary, &c.
Michie, Alexander
China -- Description and travel; Siberia (Russia) -- Description and travel
The old Observatory on the Wall is interesting as a monument of
the early astronomical tastes of the Chinese emperors, and of the
ingenuity of the Jesuits. It was first erected by the Ming before
the Jesuits came to China, or, at all events, before they began
to be influential, and afterwards greatly enlarged and improved
under the auspices of the Jesuits. There is even an old instrument
cast out and lying dishonoured in the grass--an orrery, if I
rightly remember, dating from the Mongol dynasty, 600 years old.
It is probable that the Chinese or Mongols were then in advance of
European nations in their knowledge of celestial phenomena. The
great celestial globe made under the direction of Verbiest, is a
superb casting in bronze, and although the instrument sent from
Paris is the finest in the Observatory, Father Verbiest's celestial
globe was the most interesting to me as a specimen of what a clever
man can do under almost insuperable difficulties. Since the fall of
the Jesuits little attention seems to have been paid to, or use made
of, the Observatory, and the teaching of those talented men is well
nigh lost.
The Temple of Heaven, or, as some people call it, the Altar of
Heaven, is situated near the south wall of the city. We had several
miles to go to it from our residence, in a direct line south,
along the main street from the centre gate between the Tartar and
Chinese cities. The street is wide and straight, but very dirty, and
blocked up with trumpery stalls of all sorts, and kept alive by the
incessant shouts of boys and old women. "Apples! fine apples, to be
sold cheap,--those who have no money can't have any," reminded us
of the pathetic story of "Simple Simon." Jugglers also disported
themselves in the street and attracted good audiences to witness
the swallowing and disgorging of huge stones, feats of strength,
and other miracles. The poor juggler does not seem to take much
by his motions, however, for, after swallowing an intolerable
quantity of stone, and throwing up large bricks, and allowing them
to break themselves on his head, thereby creating baldness on the
crown, and otherwise amusing a distinguished circle of spectators
for twenty minutes, he mildly solicits "cash," and has a wretched
pittance thrown into the ring, much as one would throw a bone to
a dog. I could not help wishing him some more useful outlet for
his talents. Another man would stand with a white painted board in
his hand, slightly covered with ink in a half-liquid state, and,
while conversing with the crowd, he would, by means of his thumb
and fingers, throw off such excellent representations of fishes,
birds, &c., with every fin, scale, and feather done to the life, as
one never sees in the most highly finished Chinese paintings. The
talent displayed by these peripatetic artists proves conclusively
that the Chinese do possess the skill to draw after nature. Then
why don't they do it? A question more easily asked than answered.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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