The source of the Blue Nile : $b a record of a journey through the Soudan to Lake Tsana in western Abyssinia, and of the return to Egypt by the valley of the Atbara, with a note on the religion, customs, etc. of AbyssiniaHayes, Arthur J.
Religion
The source of the Blue Nile : $b a record of a journey through the Soudan to Lake Tsana in western Abyssinia, and of the return to Egypt by the valley of the Atbara, with a note on the religion, customs, etc. of Abyssinia
Hayes, Arthur J.
Ethiopia -- Description and travel; Ethiopia -- Religion; Sudan -- Description and travel
On the morning of December 31, the donkeys were laden and our journey
was begun by a quarter to eight. We were again hindered on the march
by the shifting of the donkeys’ loads.
Our track now lay among craggy mountains, in the rain-scoured
district, where there is no single human habitation. I saw neither
wild beast nor bird, and the country gave a strange impression of
stillness and lifelessness. The flora is quite distinct from that of
the Soudan. The trees are tall and spreading and of many different
species. I recognized the “Matabele apple,” and saw the hard,
uneatable fruit on the branches. The ground in many places was covered
with “bamboo grass,” too high for a mounted man to look over,
and the thick, overtopping growth seemed to shut out the air. As we
advanced during the afternoon we discovered that the grass had been
fired at several spots along our route—I do not know by whom,
or whether it was kindled accidentally or by design. The flames
drove out some partridges, and Dupuis and I thought that we saw
a tasty breakfast for the next morning. But when we moved forward
with our guns the birds, to our amazement, ran back into the burning
cover. The fire died out in the evening, and all was quiet at night.
There is much stony land in this district. The soil of the fertile
tracts is not of the friable kind which we had so often seen in
the Soudan: but there are many fissures in it, due, no doubt, to
alternate drenching and drying in the rainy season. Our road often
lay along steep and wide gorges, through which an enormous volume
of water descends to the Atbara at the time of the floods. My mule
was very steady on his legs and the motion was easy when he trotted
on open ground. He only showed the waywardness of his kind when I
led him. It was pleasant to think that some sort of understanding
existed between the rider and his mount after one had been accustomed
for weeks to the impassive eye of the camel.
On January 1, a couple of shabby fellows visited our camp in the
morning. We questioned them and found, from the answers which Johannes
translated, that they were the escort sent to accompany Gwynn and
were on the way to join him at Gallabat. He might consider their
company a sign that he was honoured, but scarcely a sound protection
against robbery. We struck our camp after this and commenced the
day’s journey, following the bed of a river. As usual, there
were dry tracts and well filled pools in its course. Later, we
climbed the bank and struck into the country beyond, continually
riding up hill and down dale. Again we saw an abundance of tall
grass and fine timber. The former was dry at this season, and had
been burned in many places. The country here abounds in big game,
but the height and thickness of the grass make it very difficult to
sight animals. We saw a koodoo, three gazelles, traces of elephants,
and spoor of other beasts, but none came within range.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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