The source of the Blue Nile : $b a record of a journey through the Soudan to Lake Tsana in western Abyssinia, and of the return to Egypt by the valley of the Atbara, with a note on the religion, customs, etc. of AbyssiniaHayes, Arthur J.
Religion
The source of the Blue Nile : $b a record of a journey through the Soudan to Lake Tsana in western Abyssinia, and of the return to Egypt by the valley of the Atbara, with a note on the religion, customs, etc. of Abyssinia
Hayes, Arthur J.
Ethiopia -- Description and travel; Ethiopia -- Religion; Sudan -- Description and travel
have contributed an important share to the resources of the Nile
valley. Of course, I do not for an instant contend that all the
mud deposited by the river in Egypt is supplied by the white ants,
but I believe that the wonderful productive property of the alluvial
deposits is due to the work of these insects in the western borderland
of Abyssinia. Therefore, in my belief, the white ant has justified its
existence, though its room is undeniably preferable to its company.
On January 3 I saw a buffalo, tried to stalk it, and lost it. While
I was on the way to rejoin our party, a water-buck sprang up within
range—and so startled me, that he got away before I took an aim.
That day we marched seven hours, and covered twenty miles. Our
camping-place was in the rocky course which a torrent follows in
the rainy season. There were pools in it, and we had an abundance
of clear water.
The aneroid barometer showed that we were now three thousand
feet above the sea, and the air was chill as soon as the sun went
down. It was the first day on which we had reached any considerable
height. At this altitude bamboos form the prominent and characteristic
vegetation.
On January 4 we continued our ascent. The narrow path followed a
zig-zag course up a steep mountain-side. The track was full of loose
stones, and we constantly had to “negotiate” boulders and big
rocks or scramble through cramped passes. In these the larger loads
stuck, and it will be readily inferred that we made slow progress. I
heard of no other practicable route through this region, and believe
that it would be well-nigh impossible to carry heavy baggage this way.
We reached the summit at last, and saw in front of us, in the
distance, the plateau in which Lake Tsana lies. We were almost on
a level with it. Far away, many mountains rose in view, clearly
outlined, and showing light and shade in a soft and lovely purplish
blue colour. There was no glacial cap upon these high peaks, though
it is probable that the loftiest points in Abyssinia are within the
line of perpetual snow.[33]
One of our escort of Habashes from the Arab Battalion pointed eagerly
to the high lands opposite, and said to a Soudanese boy who was
standing near, “Look at my beautiful country!” The soldier’s
manner showed all the zest of a schoolboy returning home for the
holidays. The answer was, “Call this a country! Where are the
people?” Our men from Upper Egypt were puzzled and disdainful. They
had travelled eighty-six miles in Abyssinia and had not seen a
dwelling or a sign of cultivation.
A deep ravine lay below us, and we descended through it and entered a
great gorge which opened out as we advanced. We were on rocky ground,
covered with a layer of earth and loose stones. Our track wound
through dense groves of bamboos, and we had to perform gymnastics on
muleback to avoid a whipping from the canes. In this uncomfortable
covert we passed a party of traders taking coffee to Gallabat. They
had with them about sixty loads.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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