England -- Description and travel; Natural history -- England; Thomas, Edward, 1878-1917 -- Travel -- England
An uncertain path keeps to the highest ridge. The sides of the Downs
are invaded by long stream-like gorse-sided coombes, of which the
narrow floor is palest green grass. The highest points command much of
earth, all of heaven. They are treeless, but occasionally the turf is
over-arched by the hoops of a brier thicket, the new foliage pierced by
upright dead grey grass. They are the haunt of the swift, the home of
wheatear and lark and of whatsoever in the mind survives or is born in
this pure kingdom of grass and sky. Ahead, they dip to a river and rise
again, their sweep notched by a white road.
At the inland end of this river valley is an antique red-tiled
large village or small town, a perfect group of human dwellings, as
inevitable as the Downs, dominated by a mound and on it a windmill
in ruin; mothered by a church at the river’s edge. Under the sign
of “Ye Olde ----” is a room newly wainscoted in shining matchboard.
Its altar--its little red sideboard--is symmetrically decorated by
tiers and rows of lemonade, cherry cider and ginger ale bottles,
many-coloured, and in the midst of these two syphons of soda-water. The
doorways and windows are draped in white muslin, the hearth filled by a
crinkled blue paper fan; the mantelpiece supports a dozen small vases.
The oilcloth is new and odorous and bright. There are pink geraniums in
salmon-coloured bowls on the table; a canary in a suspended cage; and
on the walls a picture of a girl teasing a dog with a toy mouse.
At the cross-roads is a group of old slated white farm buildings and a
tiled farmhouse of brick and flint; and above, at the top of a slope of
down, is a grey spire and two orange roofs of cottages amidst a round
cluster of trees; the sheep graze and their bells tittle-tattle. The
seaward-going road alongside but above the river dips then under steep
banks of blackthorn and parsley to a village of flint where another
spire rises out of the old roofs of a farmhouse and its family of barns
and lodges; a nightingale sings at hand, a wheeling pewit cries and
gleams over the blue ripples of the river. Across the water a shallow
scoop has been carved by Nature out of the side of the down; it is
traversed by two diverging paths which alone are green, for the rest
of the surface is of gorse and, full in the face of the sun, forms a
mossy cirrus over the mist of its own warm shade. The down beside the
road is now all cowslips among its scattered bramble and thorn, until
it is cloven by a tributary bay, a quarter of a mile in length, marshy
at first and half-filled by elms and willows, but at its higher end
occupied, behind ash trees and an orchard, by a farmhouse, a circular
domed building and a barn, all having roofs of ochre tile, except the
thatched barn, and grey stained walls; a straight road goes to the
house along the edge of the marsh and elms. Grey plover whistle singly
on the wet borders of the stream or make a concerted whimper of two or
three.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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