Tobacco Leaves: Being a Book of Facts for SmokersBrennan, William Augustine
HistoryChristian
Tobacco Leaves: Being a Book of Facts for Smokers
Brennan, William Augustine
Tobacco
SCHLOSSING. _Sur la production de la nicotine par la culture du Tabac._
Compt. Rend. Acad. d. Sc. (Paris), 1910. Vol. 151, p. 23.
CHAPTER VI
THE CURING OF TOBACCO LEAF
OBJECTS OF CURING. METHODS.
THE CURING OF TOBACCO LEAF
The "curing" of tobacco leaf is the process of drying out which has for
its object the following specific actions:
(1) The expelling of the sap and superfluous moisture.
(2) The completion of the "yellowing" process and the fixing of the
desired color.
(3) The preservation of the juices, etc., which give the
characteristic flavor and aroma.
(4) To give the necessary toughness and suppleness to the leaf.
The first part of the curing is done by the grower in curing sheds on the
farm immediately after the cutting of the crop; the final part, or the
fermentation part is usually done by the leaf dealer or manufacturer in
special buildings called leaf-houses.
There are three methods of curing in use by the growers, i. e., sun
curing, air curing, and artificial heat curing. In the case of the tobacco
known as _Perique_ the curing process is more or less peculiar to itself.
"Sun" and "air" curing are much slower processes than the curing by
artificial heat.
All cigar leaf tobacco is sun-cured, and as a general rule pipe smoking
and chewing tobacco are cured by artificial heat.
For the purpose of drying and curing by artificial heat, the leaf is hung
up in specially constructed curing houses or sheds. It is found that after
the exposure to the sun for the first process of "yellowing" tobacco leaf
still contains 1 lb. of water approximately in each plant. The first part
of the process of curing consists in drawing off this superfluous
moisture. Dry heat is applied at a temperature of 90° F. to 120° F. for
about 16 to 30 hours to effect this. A further exposure of about 48 hours
at a temperature of 125° or so is necessary to complete the curing, and
fix the color.
The stems and stalks being thicker take a longer time and generally
require 9 to 10 hours further exposure and a temperature which may range
as high as 175° F. before they are fully cured, the temperature being
graded hourly until the maximum necessary is reached.
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