At the valley of Mohram, nearly a day’s journey from Mecca, Burckhardt
changed his garb for the _ihram_, or costume worn by the pilgrims during
their devotional services. It consists of two pieces of either linen,
cotton, or woollen cloth; one is wrapped around the loins, while the
other is thrown over the shoulder in such a manner as to leave the right
arm entirely bare. On reaching Mecca he obeyed the Moslem injunction of
first visiting the great mosque and performing all the requisite
ceremonies before transacting any worldly business. When this had been
accomplished he made a trip to Jedda for the purpose of procuring
supplies, which were necessary for the later pilgrimage to Medina, and
then established himself comfortably in an unfrequented part of Mecca, to
await the arrival of the caravan of pilgrims from Damascus.
Burckhardt describes the great mosque of Mecca, which is called the _Beit
Allah_, or “House of God,” as “a large quadrangular building, in the
centre of which stands the Kaaba, an oblong, massive structure eighteen
paces in length, fourteen in breadth, and from thirty-five to forty feet
in height. It is constructed of gray Mecca stone, in large blocks of
different sizes, joined together in a very rough manner, and with bad
cement. At the northeast corner of the Kaaba, near the door, is the
famous Black Stone, which forms part of the sharp angle of the building
at four or five feet above the ground. It is an irregular oval of about
seven inches in diameter, with an undulating surface, composed of about a
dozen smaller stones of different sizes and shapes, well joined together
with a small quantity of cement, and perfectly smoothed. It is very
difficult to determine accurately the quality of this stone, which has
been worn to its present surface by the millions of touches and kisses it
has received. It appears to me like a lava, containing several small
extraneous particles. Its color is now a deep reddish brown, approaching
to black. It is surrounded on all sides by a border, composed of a
substance which I took to be a close cement of pitch and gravel; this
border serves to support its detached pieces. Both the border and the
stone itself are encircled by a silver band.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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