Toward the end of November the caravans from Syria and Egypt arrived, and
at the same time Mohammed Ali, so that the _hadj_, or pilgrimage, assumed
a character of unusual pomp and parade. The Pasha’s _ihram_ consisted of
two of the finest Cashmere shawls; the horses and camels belonging to
himself and his large retinue, with those of the Pasha of Damascus and
other Moslem princes, were decorated with the most brilliant trappings.
On arriving, the pilgrims did not halt in Mecca, but continued their
march to the Sacred Mountain of Arafat, to the eastward of the city. A
camp, several miles in extent, was formed upon the plain, at the foot of
the mountain, and here Burckhardt joined the immense crowd, in order to
take his share in the ceremonies of the following day.
In the morning he climbed to the top of Arafat, which is an irregular,
isolated mass of granite, rising only about two hundred feet above the
plain. Overlooking thus the entire camp, he counted more than three
thousand tents, and estimated that at least twenty-five thousand camels
and seventy thousand human beings were there collected together. “The
scene,” he says, “was one of the most extraordinary which the earth
affords. Every pilgrim issued from his tent to walk over the plain and
take a view of the busy crowds assembled there. Long streets of tents,
fitted up as bazaars, furnished them with all kinds of provisions. The
Syrian and Egyptian cavalry were exercised by their chiefs early in the
morning, while thousands of camels were seen feeding upon the dry shrubs
of the plain all around the camp. The Syrian pilgrims were encamped upon
the south and southwest sides of the mountain; the Egyptians upon the
southeast. Mohammed Ali, and Soleyman, Pasha of Damascus, as well as
several of their followers, had very handsome tents; but the most
magnificent of all was that of the wife of Mohammed Ali, the mother of
Toossoon Pasha and Ibrahim Pasha, who had lately arrived from Cairo with
a truly royal equipage, five hundred camels being necessary to transport
her baggage from Jedda to Mecca. Her tent was in fact an encampment,
consisting of a dozen tents of different sizes, inhabited by her women;
the whole enclosed by a wall of linen cloth, eight hundred paces in
circuit, the single entrance to which was guarded by eunuchs in splendid
dresses. The beautiful embroidery on the exterior of this linen palace,
with the various colors displayed in every part of it, constituted an
object which reminded me of some descriptions in the Arabian tales of the
Thousand and One Nights.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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