Gautier, Théophile, 1811-1872 -- Travel -- Spain; Spain -- Description and travel; Spain -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
The Bridge of Tours is very celebrated, and possesses in itself
nothing exceedingly remarkable; but the appearance of the town is
lovely. On my arrival, the sky, with a few flakes of snow floating
negligently over its surface, was tinged with the sweetest blue;
a white line, similar to that traced by a diamond upon glass, cut
the limpid surface of the Loire, and was formed by a tiny cascade
proceeding from one of the sand-banks so frequent in the bed
of this river. In the clear air, Saint Gatien reared its brown
profile and Gothic spires, ornamented with balls and roundings
similar to those of the steeples of the Kremlin, giving to the
city a most romantically Muscovite air; a few other towers and
spires, belonging to churches the names of which I do not know,
completed the picture; while numerous vessels, with their white
sails, floated, like so many sleeping swans, upon the azure bosom
of the stream. I should have liked to have paid a visit to the
house of Tristan l'Ermite, the terrible gossip of Louis XI., which
is still in a marvellous state of preservation, with its horribly
significant ornaments, composed of coils of rope, entwined with
other instruments of torture; but I had not time; I was obliged to
content myself with the _Grande Rue_, which must be the pride of
the inhabitants of Tours, and which aspires to the rank of another
_Rue de Rivoli_.
Châtellerault, which enjoys a high reputation for the article of
cutlery, possesses nothing particular except a bridge, ornamented
at each extremity with old towers, which present a most charmingly
feudal and romantic appearance. As for its manufactory of arms, it
is a large white mass, with a multitude of windows. Of Poitiers,
having passed through it in a beating rain, and a night as dark
as pitch, I can say nothing, except that it is paved in the most
execrable manner possible.
At break of day, the coach was traversing a country wooded with
trees of an apple green planted in a soil of the brightest red,
and producing a very singular effect. The houses were covered with
tiles ridged after the Italian fashion; these tiles, too, were
staring red, a colour which appears very strange to eyes accustomed
to the brown and sooty roofs of the houses of Paris. From a piece
of eccentricity, of which I forget the motive, the builders of
those parts commence at the roofs of the houses; the walls and
foundations follow. They place the framework upon four strong
beams, and the tilers perform their portion of the work before the
masons.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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