Zanzibar; city, island, and coast. Vol. 2 (of 2)Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
History
Zanzibar; city, island, and coast. Vol. 2 (of 2)
Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
Africa, East -- Description and travel; Ethnology -- Tanzania -- Zanzibar; Zanzibar -- Description and travel
Tremolavano i rai del sol nascente
Sovra l’onde del mar purpuree e d’oro,
E in vesti di zaffiro il ciel ridente,
Specchiar parea le sue bellezze in loro.
D’Africa i venti fieri e d’Oriente,
Sovra il letto del mar prendean ristoro.—TASSONI.
Leaving directions with Lakhmidas to land and lodge our cockroach-gnawed
luggage, and deputing Saíd bin Salim, supported by our two Portuguese
servants and his three slaves, to protect it, we set out on the morning
after our arrival to visit M. Rebmann of the ‘Mombas Mission’ at
Kisulodi-ni, his station. Before the sun gained power to destroy the
dewy freshness of dawn, we slowly punted up the northern sea-arm which
bounds the Mombasah islet: in our heavy ‘dau’—here all the lesser craft
are so called—manned by two men and a small boy, we justified the stern
Omar’s base comparison for those who tempt the sea, ‘worms floating upon
a log.’ Whilst threading the channel our attention was attracted by
groups of market people, especially women, who called to be ferried
across. On the part of our crew the only acknowledgment was an African
modification of Marlow Bridge, far-famed amongst bargees. Sundry small
settlements, bosomed in thick undergrowth, relieved by brabs, cocoas,
and the W-shaped toddy-tree, appeared upon each ‘adverse strand.’ After
a two miles’ progress, lame as the march of civilisation at S’a Leone,
we entered Port Tudor, a salt-water basin, one of the canals of Mombasah
Bay, about two miles broad, and in depth varying from one to fifteen
fathoms. Broken only by the ‘Rock of Rats,’ and hedged on both sides by
the water-loving mangrove, it prolongs itself towards the interior in
two tidal river-like channels for about ten miles, till stopped by high
ground. The northern is named ‘Water of the Wakirunga,’ and the
north-western ‘Water of the Rabai,’ from tribes owning the banks.
Captain Owen has christened them respectively William Creek and River
Barrette, after the officers who aided in his survey. Similarly, Port
Reitz, to the south-west, projects a briny line called ‘Water of
Doruma’—the region which it drains—and receiving the Muache, a sweet
rivulet that flows from uplands 20 to 30 miles from the coast. Such in
nature is the Tuaca, or Nash river, which defaces our maps. It is a mere
confusion with Mtu Apa, the ‘River Matwapa’ of Captain Owen, a village
and a little runnel five miles north of Mombasah. Lieut. Emery mentions
the ‘hamlet of Mtuapa, situated at the entrance of a small river, which
runs about sixteen miles into the country.’ Like the Cuavo, or great
‘Quiloa river,’ a salt-water inlet receiving during the rainy season the
surface drainage of a seaward slope, the ‘Tuaca’ becomes a noble black
streak, dispensing the blessings of intercourse and irrigation athwart
three inches of white paper. The presence of such rivers must always be
suspected: they would long ago have fundamentally altered the social
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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