Zanzibar; city, island, and coast. Vol. 2 (of 2)Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
History
Zanzibar; city, island, and coast. Vol. 2 (of 2)
Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
Africa, East -- Description and travel; Ethnology -- Tanzania -- Zanzibar; Zanzibar -- Description and travel
condition of the interior. We may remark the same of Ptolemy’s three
great Arabian streams, which could have existed only in the imagination
of travellers.
As we advanced up the Rabai Water the sea arms shrank, and the scenery
brightened till we felt that any picture of this gorgeous and powerful
nature must be comparatively grey and colourless. A broken blue line of
well-wooded hills, the Rabai Range, first offsets of the Coast Ghats,
formed the background. On the nearer slopes, westward, were the rude
beginnings of plantations, knots of peasants’ huts hove successively in
sight, and pale smoke-wreaths, showing that the land is being prepared
for the approaching showers, curled high from field and fell. Above was
the normal mottled, vapoury sky of the rainy zone, fleecy mists,
opal-tinted, and with blurred edges, floating on milk-blue depths,
whilst in the western horizon a purple nimbus moved up majestically
against the wind. Below, the water caught various and varying
reflections of the firmament: here it was smooth as glass, there it was
dimpled by the pattering feet of the zephyrs, that found a way through
the hill-gaps, and merrily danced over the glistening floor. Now little
fish, pursued by some tyrant of the waters, played duck and drake upon
the surface: then larger kinds, scate-shaped, sprang five or six feet
into the air, catching the sun like silver plates. On both sides the
wave was bounded by veritable forests of the sea. The white mangrove
affected the unflooded ground; the red species (Rhizophora Mangle,
Linn.) rose unsupported where solidly based, but on the watery edge it
was propped, like a Banyan tree in miniature, by succulent offsets of
luscious purple and emerald green, so intricate that the eye would
vainly unravel the web of root and trunk, of branch and shoot. Hence,
doubtless, the name Aparaturie, or Apariturier, of the old French
travellers, from parere, because the tree reproduces itself like mankind
before split into Adam and Eve. Clusters of parasitical oysters adhered
edgeways to the portions denuded by the receding tide; the pirate-crab
sat in his plundered shell, whilst the brown newt and rainbow-tinted
cancers, each with solitary claw, plunged into their little
hiding-holes, or coursed sidling amongst the harrow-work of roots, and
the green tufted upshoots binding the black mass of ooze. These are the
‘verdant and superb, though unfruitful, trees’ of the old Portuguese
navigator, which supply the well-known ‘Zanzibar rafters.’ Various
lichens sat upon the branch forks, and tie-tie, or llianas, hung like
torn rigging from the boughs. Here and there towered a nodding cocoa, an
armed bombax (silk-cotton tree), or a ‘P’hun’-tree, with noble
buttressed shaft and canopied head of leek-green, glinted through by
golden beams. Fish-hawks, white and brown-robed, soared high in ether.
Lower down, bright fly-catchers hunted the yellow butterflies that
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