In the Wilds of South America

John Stuart Mill · en
The explorations here recounted were undertaken by me as a member or
leader of the following expeditions, all of which were undertaken
under the auspices of the American Museum of Natural History, New York
City: Colombia--March, 1911, to September, 1912; Colombia--November,
1914, to April, 1915; Venezuela--November, 1912, to June, 1913;
British Guiana--July to October, 1913; Roosevelt-Rondon South American
Expedition, mostly in Brazil but covering a part of Paraguay, with
stops in Uruguay and Argentina--October, 1913, to June, 1914;
Bolivia--May, 1915, to January, 1916, touching at Panama, Ecuador,
and Peru en route; Argentina--January to September, 1916. The purpose
of these expeditions was to collect birds and mammals; also to study
the fauna in general and to make all possible observations regarding
the flora, topography, climate, and human inhabitants of the regions
visited. The personnel of each expedition is given in the proper place
in the text.

I wish to acknowledge my indebtedness to Doctor Frank M. Chapman and
to Colonel Theodore Roosevelt for suggesting and encouraging the
production of this book, also to Mrs. Alice K. Fraser for the great
amount of time and work devoted to typewriting the manuscript.

                        LEO E. MILLER.




CONTENTS


                                 PART I

                                COLOMBIA

  CHAPTER                                                           PAGE
      I. BUENAVENTURA TO CALI AND THE CAUCA VALLEY                     3

     II. POPAYÁN AND THE CERRO MUNCHIQUE                              18

    III. THE ANDES SOUTHWEST OF POPAYÁN; CRUISE OF THE “CALDAS”       34

     IV. CARTAGO TO THE PARAMOS OF RUIZ AND SANTA ISABEL              47

      V. THE CHOCÓ COUNTRY ON THE WESTERN COAST OF COLOMBIA           64

     VI. IN QUEST OF THE COCK-OF-THE-ROCK                             76

    VII. CROSSING THE EASTERN ANDES INTO THE CAQUETÁ                  92

   VIII. ACROSS THE ANTIOQUIAN GOLD-FIELDS TO PUERTO VALDIVIA ON
             THE LOWER CAUCA                                         106

     IX. ASCENT OF THE PARAMILLO--COLLECTING ON THE RIO SUCIO        120


                                PART II

                               VENEZUELA

      X. FIFTEEN HUNDRED MILES ON THE ORINOCO                        141

     XI. THE MAQUIRITARES’ LAND AND THE UPPER ORINOCO                162

    XII. LIFE IN THE GUIANA WILDS                                    180

   XIII. FIRST WEEKS WITH THE ROOSEVELT SOUTH AMERICAN EXPEDITION    194

    XIV. HUNTING EXCURSIONS ALONG THE UPPER PARAGUAY                 208

     XV. A FORTY DAYS’ RIDE THROUGH WILDEST MATTO GROSSO             223

    XVI. THE DESCENT OF THE RIO GY-PARANÁ                            240

   XVII. DOWN THE COAST OF PERU--LAKE TITICACA AND LA PAZ--THROUGH
             THE ANCIENT INCAN EMPIRE TO COCHABAMBA                  265