XVIII. CROSSING THE BOLIVIAN HIGHLANDS FROM COCHABAMBA TO THE CHAPARÉ 279 XIX. AMONG THE YURACARÉ INDIANS OF THE RIO CHIMORÉ 303 XX. THE CACTUS FORESTS OF CENTRAL BOLIVIA--COCHABAMBA TO SAMAIPATA 321 XXI. A MULE-BACK JOURNEY ON THE SANTA CRUZ TRAIL TO SUCRE 336 XXII. SUCRE, THE RIO PILCOMAYO, AND THE UPLAND DESERT TO THE ARGENTINE FRONTIER 349 XXIII. BIRD-NESTING IN NORTHWESTERN ARGENTINA 365 XXIV. THE CHACO--SUGAR PLANTATIONS AND RICE MARSHES--A SEARCH FOR A RARE BIRD 378 XXV. VIZCACHA-HUNTING IN AN ARGENTINE DESERT--GIANT SNAKES 396 XXVI. THE LAKE REGION OF WESTERN ARGENTINA--THE HEART OF THE WINE COUNTRY 412 INDEX 425 ILLUSTRATIONS The cock-of-the-rock at home _Frontispiece_ FACING PAGE Buenaventura 4 Cattle grazing in the Cauca Valley 14 Port of Guanchito 14 Cerro Munchique 30 A deserted Indian hut on the Cerro Munchique 30 The _Caldas_ fast on a sand-bar in the Cauca River 44 Bamboo rafts on the Cauca River 44 The town of Salento 50 The lake on the paramo of Santa Isabel 58 Snow on the paramo of Ruiz 58 Native of Juntas de Tamaná with trail-haunting blacksnake 68 The author with natives of Juntas de Tamaná 68 Nóvita, the largest town in the Chocó 72 Threshing wheat 78 Indian hut in the Valle de las Papas 78 The village of Santa Barbara 86 A corner of San Augustin 86 A mountain stream, such as the Rio Naranjos, where the cock-of-the-rock spends its existence 88 Tree-fern, typical of the Andean forests 98 The high, flat-topped panorama of the Andes 102 The town of Valdivia 108 The Cauca River at Puerto Valdivia 108 A naturalists’ camp in the forest 116