In the Wilds of South America — John Stuart Mill — John Shaqi
In the Wilds of South America
John Stuart Mill · en
The streets, crooked and narrow,
are paved with cobblestones. The buildings are of the old adobe type,
one-story and whitewashed, with red-tile or sod roofs. Glass is not
used except in the churches, but the windows are heavily barred.
Recently a few modern brick structures have been erected. A look into
the corridors and inner courts, of which there may be several in one
house, conveys an insight into the domestic life of the people. The
front courts are very attractive with their flowers, shrubbery, and
trees, but the rear ones are anything but inviting, the dungeon-like
enclosures reminding one of the stories of atrocities and persecutions
carried on here in the turbulent times of the Spanish Inquisition.
On an average, the people are of a higher class, both intellectually
and physically, than in most Colombian cities of equal size;
comparatively few negroes are seen, and the good health and bright
looks of the inhabitants are the natural result of a cool climate and
pure mountain air.
One day, at noon, as I was photographing in the vicinity of Popayán,
after having ridden perhaps five or six miles from the city, I was
accosted by an elderly woman who invited me to stop at her humble
cabin, where she had prepared a really palatable lunch. Her reason for
doing this was that she had recognized me as a foreigner. During the
course of the meal she tearfully related that she had had a son, of
about my own age, who had gone to the States many years before. Had I
met him, and could I give her any tidings? I could have, but I did
not. By a strange and inexplicable coincidence I knew that her son had
not left the country. Instead of going to the coast he had engaged
in one of the revolutions common enough at that time and had been
captured and shot; but what right had I to remove the only support that
maintained the spark of life in her aged body? It was only the hope of
seeing her boy again that gave her the strength to resist the onslaught
of advancing years. Doubtless, she still waits, hoping against hope for
the message that will never come. Hers is the mother-love that never
despairs. How clearly it shows that human nature is very much the same
the world over, even among the lowly!