In the Wilds of South America — John Stuart Mill — John Shaqi
In the Wilds of South America
John Stuart Mill · en
On June 23 I was fortunate enough, while in Popayán, to behold one of
the religious celebrations formerly all too numerous in Latin America.
It was the _Fiesta del Sagrado Corazón de Jesús_. Troops of soldiers
and bands were lined up in front of the cathedral; all were quiet and
orderly while the sacred rites were being performed within. Suddenly
the doors burst open, bells boomed and jingled, and the contents of the
vast church poured through the portals in a steady stream. First came
the altar-boys in white surplices and red cassocks, carrying gilded
crosses on long poles and lighted tapers in silver holders, followed
by the small children, the girls with tinsel wings, resembling tiny
angels. Then came the governor of Cauca, the prefect of Popayán and
their staffs, each bearing a standard. Next in line were the maidens,
covered with large black shawls, or _mantas_, with folded hands and
downcast eyes which, however, they were not averse to raising to meet
the admiring glances cast by some of the onlookers. The students from
the seminaries and a choir of singers preceded a life-size statue of
the patron of the feast, borne aloft on the shoulders of stalwart
youths; then came the archbishop and the higher ecclesiastics in tall
mitres and gorgeously embroidered and glittering robes. Those of the
general public who chose to march fell in line behind the bands that
followed, chanting prayers. The remainder knelt in the streets with
bowed, uncovered heads as the procession passed. All the buildings,
even the trees, were gayly decorated with banners, a mixture of the
papal and national insignia. Colombia is perhaps the only remaining
country in the New World in which religion still dominates the
government.
If we examine a map of Colombia we will find that the Cerro Munchique,
the highest of the mountains in the Western Range, lies directly
west of Popayán. There is an exceedingly difficult pass across the
Cordillera at this point, leading to a place called the Cocal, still
far distant from the coast. A trail was also being opened a short
distance to the south leading to the Rio Micai. When this is completed
it will require a four days’ journey on mules to the river; then two
days in canoes on the Micai, said to contain many rapids and to flow
through country inhabited by savage tribes, before the coast is reached.
A day’s ride from Popayán took us to El Tambo, and at noon the
following day we were in the Indian village of Chapa at the very base
of Munchique. A heavy electrical storm delayed our departure until
noon the next day. There were but a dozen or fifteen adobe huts in the
village, and during the height of the tempest one of these suddenly
collapsed into a heap of mud and straw; the occupants barely escaped by
fleeing into the deluge when the buckling walls apprised them of their
danger.